Wednesday, January 27, 2010

Of History and Heaven





















August 27, 2001
Viet Nam Air
(photos:
Angkor Wat,
Stairway to Paradise)


This morning started with Ban taking us to the airport at 9 A.M. He

kept talking about the “liberation” at the end of the war. When asked

he said even the South Vietnamese call it that.


The new part of the airport is for international flights. From what I can

tell, the only new part is the façade. The routine in many overseas

airports is that you send the luggage you’re going to check through

x-ray then retrieve it. You schlep it to the check-in counter and get the

paperwork done. The next step is to pay the exit tax and go through

customs: not necessarily in that order. After finding out the exit tax was

now $12/person instead of $10, David counted out the appropriate

amount in dong and we squeaked by with 4,000 dong (35 cents) to

spare. Carry-on bags are x-rayed, passports are checked and you

move to a holding pen to await your flight. When the flight is called

your carry-on may be x-rayed again, your passport and/or boarding

pass checked, and you go to the gate to wait. There’s no such thing

as boarding children first. They make the announcement, but that’s

just a signal for everyone to mob the entrance to the gate. The plane

isn’t anywhere in sight, but there’s a bus. You drag your

carry-on bags onto the bus and are taken to the plane. Today

we had a surprise. We’d been flying airbuses, but this plane

was a two-engine I-don’t –know-what-brand. We wondered

if the pilot was the one Ban said dropped the last bombs on the

South. He’s now working for some airline. The take-off was kind of

a kick. We wobbled down the runway and the lift-off was like a

roller coaster ride. I wanted to look back down the runway for the

slingshot. The landing wasn’t much better.


Siem Reap


It's the rainy season and we flew low enough to see the Mekong

River in flood. The airport in Siem Reap was basic. Bags were

lifted onto a long conveyor made of rollers, no belt. Women

pushed luggage along by hand and later validated

baggage checks before they’d let you take your bag. We were

picked up in a vintage Toyota with right side steering. Some

cars have left hand drive but are driven on the right side of the road.


The road from the airport gave us a preview of things to come.

Some roads are paved but they’re bumpy and dusty. Our guide,

Savon, a woman, seems nice but is very hard to understand.

She told us that Siem Reap means “Siam Defeated.” Siem refers

to Siam during the time when the Khmer (Cambodian’s

original name) ran the Siamese out.


All meals are included at our hotel. Dessert was fruit. We were

unfamiliar with a “moonkot.” It looks like a purple plum with

very tough inedible skin. The inside is white, fleshy, citrusy

tasting segmented fruit much like an orange.


Prices are high for non-food items. A short elephant ride up a

mountain is $15 one way. We didn’t go. The Internet charge is

$5 per half hour. They tell you up front that the telecommunication

services are unreliable. If you get dumped, you pay anyway. If

you’re online for 31 minutes it costs $10. I really get the feeling

they’re taking advantage of tourists. Foreign investors are pouring

money into development but it seems to be for hotels and they're

anticipating a windfall. It’s the first time on the trip we feel singled

out in this way. In Viet Nam we knew we were paying more for

water on the street than a native, but when our guide bought

us a bottle we realized the difference was minor.


They don’t care what currency you use but prefer U.S. dollars.

They have no coins, so everything is $1 or more. There’s no

reason to change U.S. dollars into Riels. David went to a bank

to cash a Traveler’s Check and was shocked to get U.S.

money in return minus a fee.


The New Cambodia


The government is still shaky. Although King Sihanouk is in power,

it’s the prime minister and Parliament who are in charge. When

Sihanouk dies his sons aren’t eligible for the throne because their

mother isn’t royalty. Their cousins will inherit the throne. The prime

minister is very popular, but Sihanouk isn’t at all. They say

the world likes him; Cambodians don’t. They see him as a leader

who deserted his people and left them to the Khmer Rouge. The

country isn’t strong economically and doesn’t produce enough rice

to feed itself. The blame is being placed on an ancient

king who built temples instead of maintaining the irrigation system.

They’re not as security conscious as Viet Nam where passports

were taken when we checked into our hotel. then returned after the

police checked them against a list. Here we got our

passports right back.


Although it seems cleaner than Viet Nam, this is really in the sticks.

The jungle is just around the bend. The people are darker skinned

and use Sanskrit writing. India has been a major trader and settler

here and their influence is felt in culture and religion.

Their mythos is filled with tales of Ramayana, Apsarases, and Garudas.

My eyes just glaze over at the list of multi-syllabic deities and kings.


Angkor Wat


Angkor is the name of the city and Wat means temple. Between the

6th and 15th centuries Cambodia enjoyed a long period of power.

There was a burst of temple construction with Angkor Wat built in

the mid-12th century. Three moats and four walls surround it. It

was originally a blend of Hindu and Buddhist, but, as kings

changed, it alternated sects. Each king also felt a need to move

the capital, so Angkor Wat fell into disuse. Buddhist monks moved

in and are the only reason so much of it is standing today.


The remains are as it appears on the Travel Channel: a massive

reddish sandstone tructure well beyond its prime. Carvings are

detailed and intricate. A marvelous bas-relief follows the entire

perimeter of the first level. The third level symbolizes

heaven. It’s reachable by mounting an amazing flight of steps

steeper and less defined than any Mayan temple I’ve climbed.

We managed the reach the top but thought we’d have to spend

eternity in their "heaven." When looking down from the top the

steps aren’t visible. It’s like a ladder. Fortunately we were able

to scoot down by clinging to a railing and skittering backwards.

The railing was put in after a Japanese tourist fell.


We’ve unpacked our still wet but clean laundry and it’s drying

nicely. David just informed me that the shower has no hot water,

but not to worry. The cold water isn’t very cold. Neither is the

air-conditioning. Sometimes you have to use a laptop

computer on your lap. Our hotel room has one plug and it’s not

at the desk. Although the hotel is pretty average, the food is good.

The hotel is clean and the lobby quite nice with a lovely curved

carved wood stairway. Those stairs are used a lot. Even

though there are three floors there’s no elevator.


Toby

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