Still Wales

Snowdonia RR

Road to Portmerion

Portmerion

Self-explanatory

August 21, 2007-Sheepish

Every trip has to have one throw-away day. In Peru we spent a hell of a lot of money to fly over Nazca lines in the desert near Ica. We were air sick and visited a tacky oasis. At least today we didn't spend a fortune but we didn't get to all we'd planned to see. We did pick some losers.

We started early so we'd be able to see what was on our list or allow time to get lost. We got lost. At one point it became so tedious passing the same sheep over and over that we began to name them. We came up with the inevitable Blackie and Whitie then got more creative with Shellie, Ewie, and Ramon. Tonight, after a drink, Karen thought of the Queen of Sheepa.

At last we got to Snowdonia National Park. As mountains go Snowdon is not huge at 2500 feet. As we approached the scenic railroad, clouds cast black shadows on the hills while mounds of slate and shale reflected purple. At least there was enough sunlight to cause shadows. Ron and I have had a difference in opinion as to whether or not the mountains were big. He insists that the sheep looked really small next to them. I concede that was true. I was comparing them to the Rockies, not to the sheep. Ron also had a drink when we had this talk. We did learn that the mountains are high enough to require 250 rescues a year.

The Snowdon cog railroad was built in 1895 and is propelled by a Swiss built engine. The steam locomotives are powered by coal and smell sulphuric. We were trying to imagine what it would have been like in a world powered by coal. There was a movie explaining the history of the railroad and the introduction to it was done by a young man whose English was unintelligible to me. I got the giggles and covered my mouth. He must have heard me because he asked if I had something to contribute. I didn't understand him and didn't know he was even talking to me. He realized he'd caught me off guard and muttered some more. Karen asked me if I frequently misbehaved in school. When he left us in the theater he had trouble closing the door. When he succeeded it slammed with an echoing clang and we were sealed in the dark. I mentioned that I half expected to hear the hiss of gas.

We bought tickets then waited 1 1/2 hours for our round trip of 1 1/2 hours. That included a half hour stop at the mid-point before reversing. Construction prevented us from continuing to the top. Eight people were crammed into cubicles built for six and, knees battled for space as we chugged on up. We packed a lunch planning to eat at the stop. When we got there it was so cold and cloudy we stayed in the cars to eat. Ron and David ventured out during the brief breaks in the clouds. We lucked out. The other people in our compartment decided to walk the 2 1/2 miles down. Our ride down was so much better since I stretched out and slept.

We got chummy with a couple from Kent, England while waiting for the train. She and I decided to go to the bathroom "just in case" since there were no facilities up top. I told her about "preventative peeing" and she told me that her kids still talk about "giving a squeeze."

Slow Going To Nowhere

Between the heavy traffic, narrow roads, and getting lost we averaged 15 miles per hour motoring to Portmerion a Welsh seaside version of Epcot and a rip-off at $13 per person admission. The entry drive was lined with a wall of hydrangeas and promised the magnificent gardens mentioned in the brochure. Ron, ever the optimist and always trying to put a positive spin on things, thought it only needed a coat of paint. It was designed and assembled in the early 1900's by an architect who should have known better. He tried to create an Italian village including what-knots from around the globe. The Buddha featured in the movie Teahouse of the August Moon lurked in a gazebo while gilt statues of Thai dancing girls pirouetted atop columns by the pool. There were too many improbabilities to mention. It was gift shop ridden and even the woodland garden trail was tired looking. When we passed a fountain into which people had thrown coins Karen warned that we should be careful not to drop any money in or we might have to come back.

We had no time to see the copper mine or castle we'd planned on so tried to save the afternoon by going to the nearby town of Porthmadog. It's not about dogs. Madog is an historic figure. Towns here close at 5:30pm. Most stores and restaurants fold up and roll their wares inside. We found a parking lot in time to leave.

We had great directions getting back to Betws-y-Coed but it’s a melancholy town today. We saw lots of emergency equipment yesterday and the news carried a story of a child falling into the river near a waterfall. There were police on every bridge peering into the water and helicopters hovering. I don't think they hope to find the child alive. It overcomes me every time we go through town.

I don't want to leave you on a heavy note so I'll mention the sign we saw outside a church. Although we missed the event it brought smiles to our faces. A Ferret Derby took place on August 12.

Toby