Mumbai

Sleeping Cows

Carousing Russians

Poverty

Riches

Jan. 20, 2013- Saturday Night Out

While waiting in the open air lobby to go to dinner we were startled by a large furry creature with a long tail running as if for its life across the floor. It was followed by the sounds  of a dog barking. The people at the desk assured me it was a large cat. I was sure it wasn't. Cats don't have long snouts. Sahid told us it was a mongoose. That's a first. They're very common here & useful in eating snakes of which there are plenty. 

We went to dinner last night with the couple from New Jersey. We walked to the beach fending off vendors, traipsed across scuzzy sand, & ate at a seafood restaurant that had been recommended. During dinner Sahid appeared with his lovely wife. He knew our plans & wanted to let us know the timing of tomorrow's departure. Very accommodating.

On our walk back to the hotel, just a Saturday night stroll, we stumbled upon a herd of cattle sleeping in the road. There must have been a dozen of them dozing in the midst of the hubbub. Further on we noticed that the bi-lingual signage was in Cyrillic & Sanskrit lettering.  Bar after bar was overflowing with Russians just as Sahid said. They were happy to let us take their pictures or too drunk to notice.

City Trek

This morning we went on an extra excursion during which we explored another St. Xavier's Church (1516) where we hovered outside the doors during the English Mass. They run three services in different languages. The interior looked a lot like others we've seen with gilt altar, etc.We were far above the city as we kept climbing past decrepit World Heritage houses with moss encrusted walls. I thought the black on walls here was mold but Sahid said it's moss that turns black in the sun but green in the rainy season. I imagine it looks a bit like ivy when it's green. Up again we went to where the rich folks live. Their houses were mostly painted which, unlike whitewash, inhibits the growth of moss. As we snaked our way down into the poorest sections we saw a Hindu shrine in front of a house, but learned about another of their customs that was similar to a Jewish one. Hindus kiss their fingers then touch the shrine. Kind of like a mezuzah.

We were led to a shopping street where some did buy last minute gifts then to another market. I'd had it with markets & can't wait to go to a store in Akron & complain it's too cold. One man in our group tried to take a picture of a vendor & she almost threw an apple at him. What a difference. I was beyond wilting in the heat & the distances between each place was great. But it was I who, when Sahid asked if we could do a long walk earlier this morning said," No problem. This group climbed hills to find tigers & elephants." Well, shut my mouth.

Finally, we were taken to the airport. David took one look & knew it would be nothing like the smooth, organized experience with Charles. First of all, the security (armed & threatening) had increased since we arrived in Goa. We don't know what's going on but it probably has to do with Pakistan. Sahid had to get our itinerary one couple at a time then run outside to give it to us. He wasn't allowed to come into the airport at all but by now we knew what we're doing. The crush of people was very un-Charles-like. There was no one to grease the way. David had to pay off the man at the check-in counter who made it clear he wanted money even though our luggage wasn't heavy. After all, we wanted to see the bags again. We got to the gate & found a sign in a seating area that was a sight for our sore eyes, "Reserved for Senior Citizens & Physically Handicapped." That''s us.

Expectations

Our forty--five minute Air India flight exceeded our expectations since we don't think much of the airline after our flight from JFK. Mumbai also exceeded our expectations. We were last here in April, 2002 on our way back from Australia. The city is cleaner than I remembered & the number of modern skyscrapers has, pardon the pun, skyrocketed. One fifty-seven story building is the private residence of the richest family in India. No one lives there because the Hindu priest told them it wasn't auspicious. During the day there are 600 people working 24/7 keeping up the place. Mumbai now has traffic lights that seem to be heeded, but controlling twenty million people is almost impossible. That's the entire population of Australia in one city. We didn't see one cow on the way to our first hotel.

Yes, you read it correctly. Jijo, our twenty-three year old escort told us he's lived here all his life. We were met in an even smaller van than the first one in Goa & the rebellion began. We were assured our guide tomorrow would have a more suitable vehicle.  Jijo confirmed our reservation at the Taj President & we set off. He was supposed to take us through town as part of our orientation but we wanted the shortest route to the hotel. There's a brand new bridge since we were here & it cut forty minutes off our trip. What a dream.

The security at hotels here is extreme after the attack on hotels & the Jewish Center several years ago. The grounds are gated & cars aren't admitted until trunks & hoods are opened & a mirror scans the undercarriage. Guests walk through a metal detector & all handbags & luggage go through X-ray. We settled into the lobby to wait for our keys when a sad looking manager approached. He profusely apologized for our inconvenience but the people in what were to be our rooms were too ill to leave. We were being upgraded to the Taj Mahal (Palace), a 5-star hotel by the Gateway to India. That's exactly where we stayed in 2002 & it's exactly one of the hotels that was attacked.

Back into the loathsome van we went. Our new digs weren't far & security was as tight. I didn't remember a thing about the lobby but the new one is lovely with a wall-sized waterfall cascading over marble. Our room must not have been damaged in the attack since it doesn't look refurbished. Our view isn't of the Arabian Sea but of the city which will be pretty at night. It's better than the daytime view which is obscured by thick smog.

Our shrunken group had dinner at a vegetarian restaurant featuring a thali meal. We had it once before. I call it a meal in the round. We were given a round metal platter with a series of small empty metal cups. Soon enough servers came around filling the cups. There were a few unusual treats we'd never had before although I thought some of them were tricks. The deep fried pakoras were delicious until the heat hit me. They gave us a choice of two drinks. One was supposed to be buttermilk & the other cardamon water. When I saw the faces of those who'd tasted them I passed. The desserts were an overly sweet rice pudding & fried dough & honey concoction. David loved the meal. Most didn't.

Tomorrow we'll have a half day city tour before being turned loose on our own.

Toby