Sicily-Catania

Gardens

Symbol of Catania

Friar Tuck Outside Cathedral

Amphitheater & Fetid Water

April 7, 2014

Bad

I just can't resist quoting from the guidebook again. "...when the mayor of Catania proposed making a bid for the Mediterranean Games, people turned out in big demonstration against it-the anti-games leaders weren't shy about saying that the embarrassment of showing their city off to  the world would be a little too much to take." It goes on, "...for now, you can cruise the streets of this perfect dystopia & enjoy the aroma of an urban carcass that is rotting away." Strong words.

Decrepitude, that's another strong word. It's my opinion of Catania. Living here would be like living in a New York subway. OK, I'll cut it some slack. It doesn't smell as bad as a subway. The saving grace, the jewel in the thorny crown, the oasis in the maelstrom is Giardino Bellini. It's an elevated city garden reached by climbing a grand staircase of black & white inlaid stones. It is complete with quiet paths, a gazebo, & a view of Mt. Etna. It is a carefully maintained retreat amidst the rot. A floral clock is its centerpiece & it claims to have the largest fig tree in the world.

To be fair, I must mention that, given its history, Catania is holding its own. It has been destroyed by Etna, earthquakes, & armies seven times & has re-built. Maybe they're tired. Maybe they're superstitious. They may think that if they don't take care of the city noone & nothing will devastate it again.

We made our way towards the old city (quite a hike) & encountered the largest outdoor market I've ever seen spanning several city blocks. There were "departments" catering to foodstuff, clothing, household goods, tools. You name it; it was there. A woman stopped me & with gestures & rapid Italian indicated I should put my purse under my jacket. I was wearing it cross-body purse under my jacket but it stuck out at the bottom. I shortened the strap & was able to conceal the entire purse. I looked about six months pregnant but no one was going to try to nab this "baby." It drove home that the reputation of Catania was valid. It's a dangerous place.

We reached the Piazza Duomo & were disappointed to see scaffolding covering the entire altar of the Cathedral. Of interest were ruins of Roman baths around which the seating was arranged. The pulpit & some statues were of carved black lava & Bellini, the composer, is buried somewhere in the church.

Worse

We walked through a nearby city gate & gawked at what must have been an impressive palazzo. Back we went through the gate & opted to find something really old, the Greco-Roman Theater & Odeon. We qualified as seniors after showing our U.S. driver's licenses & entered a small museum leading to the amphitheater. The usual background here: Greeks built it, Romans modified it, Normans stole the marble for the Cathedral. We wandered in the dark through what we assumed was "backstage" & emerged at the top of the facility after climbing many rotted wooden & crumbling lava stone steps. It was a shambles compared to the one in Taormina. Where the stage had been was now a collection of fetid water. Garbage was strewn all around as it is in the rest of the city. No pride.

We walked back to the area of our hotel via Cruciferio St. It's lined with Baroque villas, convents, & churches all in need of a good sandblasting. We tried to imagine what it would look like scrubbed clean & agreed it could be a marvel.

Lunch was calling us. I must admit I've misread signs that say "Catanese" as "Cantonese." Wishful thinking, I guess. I'm ready for a different cuisine. We ended up at a trattoria/pizzeria where we ordered pizza & watched as it was delivered from the take-away stand next door. Among other delicacies we chose not to order, the menu included what was translated as "pickled newly born baby fish." The other languages seemed to corroborate the English version.

We returned to our hotel & collapsed until dinner. The restaurant recommended by our hotel wasn't open yet so we walked across the street. Il Quarticciola Ristorante was only two weeks old but they had their act together. A server with excellent English walked us through the menu. They gave us gratis champagne & an after dinner drink & we left feeling sated & cared for. We took a stack of their business cards & gave them to our hotel.

Judi, David, & I are happy to be going home. I hope Judi thinks it's been worthwhile. She's a real trooper.

We leave for the airport tomorrow at 4:45 AM. Lights out will be early for us. I'm resigned to opening our windows & swatting mosquitoes again tonight. I'll have lots of time to sleep on the plane tomorrow.

Toby