Tripping With Toby: St. Petersburg- Museums

Oct. 9, 2918-St. Petersburg- Museums

How many people does it take to return an earring? Last night I bent down to pick up what I thought was a dime at the elevator in our hotel. It was an earring. One woman recognized to whom it belonged. Another said she’d give it to the owner who was at a folk music show. Our little group was on the way to dinner with Bob. Thinking better of it, the earring holder gave it to Bob since he was going to see the earring owner first when he picked up the people at the show. Bob later gave the earring to its delighted owner who had looked for it in the theater. This morning I gave the earring owner a few plastic earring stops/guards to prevent further loss. She attempted to slide the stops onto her earrings, but was rushed since the group was boarding the bus. Two of us took an ear each and slid the stops on her earring backs. In short, it takes a village.

We were dropped off at Artist’s Square and chose to walk to the Faberge Museum. It is housed in a former palace and there are few words to describe the intricacy, originality, and beauty on display. The couple we were with spent time in the gift shop so we browsed too. They had a collection of colorful Shabbat candles & dreidels for sale. Of course, they weren’t Faberge. We also found a $2350 hippo. Didn’t buy it.

After lunch we walked down Nevsky Prospect, a shopping boulevard, to the bus. We rode to the Winter Palace which houses part of the Hermitage collection. The main palace was built for Peter’s daughter, Elizabeth, who loved open spaces. She must have adored the ginormous 1054 rooms. Steps were built with low risers since she had bad knees. We all appreciated that. But, alas, Elizabeth never lived there. She died before she could take up residence. But Peter’s wife, Catherine, made the most of it. The name, Hermitage, means “lonely place.” She treasured her solitude and didn't’ want to share her accumulated art. It was for her and her alone.

Only 8% of the collection is on display. It is said that if you view each item on display for only a minute, it will take you 8 years to see them all. Then there’s the rest of it in storage. I took a few pictures but agreed with the guide. If you go onto hermitage.com, you can download photos without tourists in them.

Before Hitler’s army arrived, the curator of the museum had foresight and a plan. He removed all the paintings from their frames and numbered both paintings and frames. Empty frames were left on the walls and the pictures were crated and shipped to Siberia. After the war they were returned to their original places as if nothing had happened.

The Hermitage would been a lovely experience even if the palace was empty. You really need three trips. One is to look at the art, one to absorb the design of the rooms, & the third is to appreciate the inlaid floors.

Yesterday, our city guide asked us to think about why there was a revolution after WWI. The answer to us is exemplified by the number of palaces illustrating the disparity of wealth at the time. One family had 50 palaces in and around the city. There was plenty of fodder to incite the majority of Russians who had nothing. Today, I found myself remarking, “Not another pink palace.”

Our farewell dinner was at a small restaurant that reminded me of a stage set for a Russian tea room. Vodka shots were already at our places when we were seated, and wine was included. Toasts were made to Bob, his future with fiancé Julian, etc. After more drinks, the toasts got silly. Roma musicians and dancers appeared. When the violinist began to screech, we all looked at Bob for a reaction. He had his head in his hands. His fiancée is a concert violinist. Soon we were taking turns dancing to the Russian melodies. Then, big mouth, David asked if they played hava nagilah. They called his bluff and struck up the tune. Before you knew it, David was on the dance floor and so was I. That’s why I don’t have a photo of him dancing.....yet. Others were snapping away.

We have an early start tomorrow. Some of our group is staying and some going home. We’re boarding a high-speed train for Moscow. It will take four hours instead of the twelve that a regular train takes.

Toby