Antwerp

Antwerp

Madonna With Lantern

May 29, 2011-Planning Ahead

Another sleepless night. David was hurting, beds are like rocks, & I woke at 4 AM. Our neighbor got a wake-up call at 5AM & walls are thin so we heard their phone ring. Our beds pull down over the sitting area and when made up at night they look charming. Problem is the two drawers under the beds become inaccessible unless you get on your hands and knees to open them. But they do pull out far enough to see the contents.

We breakfasted with women from Kalamazoo. They're widows who travel together and belong to a liberal Lutheran church. We had lots to talk about. There was an orientation walk led by the three tour directors (Dewi among them) to explain about the optional tours and encourage us to select the ones we want. We'd already decided to go only to Augustenberg Castle & Luxembourg so we'll have lots of time to wander the towns where we dock. There has already been a change in docking location. We were supposed to go to Willemstad but the river is too low and we'll dock in Rotterdam tomorrow. At first it sounded good to me but then they told us that Rotterdam was leveled during WWII & was rebuilt as a modern city with not much to see. The optional tour is to Delft & that doesn't sound interesting either.

Although they predicted the high would be 72, the day started out very blustery. I wore all the layers I had but am kicking myself for relying on Grand Circle's average weather info provided in their brochures. I should have looked at a world map. Then I would have known we're as far north as Calgary, Canada. What I would give for Under Armor. Due to my layers, the gloves I wore, & the hood over my head, I didn't take notes on our city walk this morning. The skin on my face is taking a beating. I moisturize but it has turned to crocodile leather and my chin area is starting to peel. It may be eczema and I don't have the cream I use for that. I don't think sun screen will be good for it at all. Maybe it's the wind and dry air or an irritation from the errant shampoo I used in place of a moisturizer in Bruges, but I've also developed a spot that better disappear soon or I'm back to the dermatologist.

We were given ear pieces and receivers to use on our walk. Our guide was miked and easy to hear. I tried to keep my back to the wind and just peeped out from under my hood to glance at what he was describing. The most interesting things were the Madonnas on almost every old building. They were always accompanied by a now electrified lantern. Long ago the people of Antwerp wanted to illuminate their streets at night for safety reasons. The town elders thought it would present a fire hazard since they used candles in those days. Someone got the brilliant idea of placing a Madonna next to the lamp and the bishop thought it was lovely that so many wanted to highlight their beautiful statues at night. Problem solved.  In all, the walk was quite unpleasant and we deadheaded back to the boat when it was over. Since it was Sunday stores were closed except for the diamond district. It has always been a Jewish business in this part of the world but since we weren't buying gems, we took a pass. Chassidic Jews we can see at home.

The dining room seems to provide enough vegetarian and non-pork options so we won't starve. We may have the opposite problem since the food seems delicious. There was a chocolate demonstration after lunch with tastes of course. David fell asleep. I did learn that pralines here are filled chocolates, not the maple and pecan candy we think of in the US. I busied myself by starting a 500 piece jigsaw puzzle. I laid it out on a table in the lounge near the bar but I'd hate to impede their profit center. We had to move it to the library for the Captain's reception. I found a fellow jigsawer and she helped with the puzzle and the move.

There are hand sanitizer dispensers as you enter the boat and by the dining room. We're encouraged to use them frequently as there's some kind of European virus going around. Hope the kitchen help is as diligent. I fear lack of sleep more than the virus. We sailed tonight and will dock before morning. I'm sure we'll be awakened as we bump the dock. Lots of people were on deck for the departure. I tried but between staying out of the sun (which emerged at last) & avoiding the wind, I ended up in the only covered area which doubles as the smoking deck. Couldn't stay there, so I watched from our room.

The Captain's reception was to introduce the crew. We were in a holding pattern to enter our first lock and it was a good distraction. The crew hail from countries too diverse to enumerate and it occurred to me that they have to communicate with each other in a common language. That would be English.

The Captain's dinner was sumptuous with the added benefit of going through our first lock. Now we can skip the Panama Canal. Dinner started with an amuse bouche (dollop of lox & cream cheese on a spoon), duck salad served with homemade brioche, prawns on mashed & crispy potatoes served on lobster sauce (we had grilled veggies), black currant sherbet & yogurt frappe, David had veal & I had salmon (available at all dinners), creme brule & Belgian waffle with ice cream for dessert.

Tomorrow we'll stay in town and take a short walking tour. In the afternoon the boat moves to another dock where we'll see lots of windmills.

Toby