One Week and Counting

May 7, 2002- Getting In Deeper
(Photo:De Opstal Country Lodge )

Our host at the ocean front guesthouse last night, Gary, is originally from South Africa. His family moved to Switzerland during apartheid when he was small. That probably makes him one of the good guys. He just returned two years ago and built the B & B. He’s a gracious host and let us use his email. As it turned out, he’s also a good cook. Breakfast this morning consisted of fresh fruit, crepe-like pancakes and eggs made to order. That was in addition to a selection of cereals, cheeses, and breads. He also has a sense of humor. There’s a sign on one of the garage doors that reads, “Please do not block this door. This parking space reserved for owners girlfriend.” He had crossed out girlfriend and written in fiancée. One of the other couples was from England. The Englishman proposed to his girlfriend on the beach yesterday before the rains came. The place just has that romantic effect on people. Eva and Heinrick, from Germany, didn’t show for breakfast. She was finishing the better part of a bottle of red wine last night when we went to bed. It’s lucky that we like animals. The B & B in Hermanus had a dog and this one had two dachshunds and a bullmastiff. I love them in all shapes and sizes. Being comfortable with cats and dogs may be a pre-requisite for staying at B & Bs.

The farther we get into this part of South Africa, the less English is spoken. The first language of choice is Afrikaans and we’ve even found some who don’t speak English at all. We noticed that most of the clerks in stores were colored while the blacks held more menial jobs. Apartheid is legally over, but the social and economic stratification remains. The language division exacerbates this as well. The blacks are less likely to speak English and I think that dual language ability is necessary to be upwardly mobile.

We went to Knysna in the rain today. It was a picturesque drive around forest lakes into a one-robot town. We read directions to the wharf shops and they included the notation that we had to turn at the only robot in Knysna. When we asked, the woman fumbled for an explanation. At last, she asked us if we were from the U.S. When we said we were she told us that we call it a traffic light. I never would have figured that one out. We parked the car and were given a bit of entertainment with our security car- watcher this time. He did a little dance as he directed the cars and helped them to maneuver in and out of the spaces. His arms waved, his hands moved in a syncopated rhythm with his feet as he used just the right amount of body language to get his point across.

We’ve found some very good food in South Africa even though the guidebook said the cuisine consisted mostly of meat and starch with sugar or honey added for interest. At lunch we were treated to tunes that seemed to come from an era of their favorite oldies. We were serenaded with “Wake Up Little Susie” and “Tammy” among others of that ilk. I’ve noticed that here and in Australia, and perhaps elsewhere out of the States, restaurants don’t necessarily have their own rest room facilities. There are public toilets nearby that serve a cluster of eateries. In India and Kenya I was lucky if they had a hole in the ground. We also noticed that their use of what we’d consider “racial slurs” is acceptable. I mentioned “colored” when they refer to someone of mixed race. Today we saw a children’s clothing store called “Piccanins.” It sold Aunt Jemima dolls. Tonight we’ll eat at a restaurant called Jemima’s.

The ferries into the lagoon on which Knynsa is situated weren’t running due to the weather, so we opted for a scenic crafts route on the way to Oudtshoorn and failed. It was called the Rheenendal Ramble, but the ramblin’ road stopped at a dirt track and we weren’t going to risk taking the car there. It was a pretty drive as far as it went with tinges of purple heather to distract from the monotony of the green hillsides. We have real heat tonight, a fireplace and a heater. We’ve been making do with space heaters and down comforters until now. We’re staying in Oudtshoorn at De Opstal Country Lodge. The owner, Matilda Schoeman, is the 9th generation of her family to live in the Schoemanskoek Valley. Established in 1831, it’s comprised of converted farm buildings. We’re staying in the stable. The floors are terra cotta tiles and the ceiling is covered with bamboo and beams. Eclectic is an understatement. We have a sitting area in front of the fireplace, our bathroom has two steps down then one up to the commode, and if we don’t cripple ourselves in the night we’ll live to enjoy the Cadbury chocolates on our pillows. Right now David is mesmerized by the fire. It’s not quite the ocean, but it will do. When it got dark last night he whinged that “they took the ocean away from me.”

In another vein, we’ve gotten some email from Australia telling about a rise in anti-Semitism there due to the crisis in the Middle East. We’re totally out of touch with U.S. news. Perhaps some of you could let us know if it’s the same there. We’ll be home in less than a week. When we spoke to Wendy this afternoon I said we’d see her soon. This time we really will.

Toby