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| Papal Palace |
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| Le Pont d'Avignon |
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| Synagogue |
Oct. 8, 2015- Avignon
Passionate Avignon
We conquered Avignon! So did several popes. Between 1309-1377, Avignon became the seat of the papacy after a disagreement between Rome and the king of France. More strife caused the Western schism in 1378, returning the Papacy to Avignon with what are called illegitimate popes or anti-popes. It blew up again, and in 1417, Rome resumed control.
But getting to Avignon was half the fun. We drove past fields that were probably drawn by Van Gogh with gnarled farmhouses likely standing from his day. Greenhouses dotted the landscape bringing in modern elements. Every few kilometers there was another roundabout requiring us to count exits out loud. We echoed Lily Tomlin's "one ringy dingy, two ringy dingies,..."
As the home of Christianity in the 14th and part of the 15th century, Avignon needed a presence. The Papacy had to set down roots and prove its dominance. It had to face off with the Kings of France and show who was boss. In building the Palais des Papes in just twenty years, the Church created its seat of power and competed in the "my palace is bigger than yours" contest. Theirs won.
Massive might be too insignificant a word. Gargantuan might be more accurate. The Palais is a tribute to architects and masons of the day. Its vaulted ceilings, arches, and walls are all stone. Humans are dwarfed. Today, the visitor has to imagine the frescoes covering the walls and rely on the audio-guide and videos. The narrative is filled with stories of this miracle and that leaving me reeling as to the complexity of the tales. The rooms began to look alike and the mythos blended into a blur. After traipsing the flights of steps involved in getting anywhere, I admire the stamina of the popes who lived there. Alas, in the French Revolution of the 1800's, the structure was used as a prison.
We bought a Passion Pass at the Tourist Info Bureau that gave us discounts at many venues. Our next quest was the infamous Pont. Arching over the Rhone, it ends abruptly where it collapsed. Again the audio-guide told of more miracles and pointed out more chapels. This time St. Benezet was said to have levitated rocks to get it all started, but eventually townsfolk pitched in. Built in the 13th century, it became famous when a popular song was written in the mid-1800's, telling about children dancing on the bridge. Actually, dancing took place under the bridge. Their bad.
We spent too much time and had an unsatisfactory lunch at a cafe that ran out of whatever we ordered and had snail-paced service. We found the 13th century synagogue on whose steps rested several drunks. Not surprisingly, it was closed. We rang the bell under a sign indicating it should be open, but to no avail. David had emailed them a few times asking for an appointment, but had no response.
Late night. Tired. Tomorrow likely going to Nimes.
Toby
We conquered Avignon! So did several popes. Between 1309-1377, Avignon became the seat of the papacy after a disagreement between Rome and the king of France. More strife caused the Western schism in 1378, returning the Papacy to Avignon with what are called illegitimate popes or anti-popes. It blew up again, and in 1417, Rome resumed control.
But getting to Avignon was half the fun. We drove past fields that were probably drawn by Van Gogh with gnarled farmhouses likely standing from his day. Greenhouses dotted the landscape bringing in modern elements. Every few kilometers there was another roundabout requiring us to count exits out loud. We echoed Lily Tomlin's "one ringy dingy, two ringy dingies,..."
As the home of Christianity in the 14th and part of the 15th century, Avignon needed a presence. The Papacy had to set down roots and prove its dominance. It had to face off with the Kings of France and show who was boss. In building the Palais des Papes in just twenty years, the Church created its seat of power and competed in the "my palace is bigger than yours" contest. Theirs won.
Massive might be too insignificant a word. Gargantuan might be more accurate. The Palais is a tribute to architects and masons of the day. Its vaulted ceilings, arches, and walls are all stone. Humans are dwarfed. Today, the visitor has to imagine the frescoes covering the walls and rely on the audio-guide and videos. The narrative is filled with stories of this miracle and that leaving me reeling as to the complexity of the tales. The rooms began to look alike and the mythos blended into a blur. After traipsing the flights of steps involved in getting anywhere, I admire the stamina of the popes who lived there. Alas, in the French Revolution of the 1800's, the structure was used as a prison.
We bought a Passion Pass at the Tourist Info Bureau that gave us discounts at many venues. Our next quest was the infamous Pont. Arching over the Rhone, it ends abruptly where it collapsed. Again the audio-guide told of more miracles and pointed out more chapels. This time St. Benezet was said to have levitated rocks to get it all started, but eventually townsfolk pitched in. Built in the 13th century, it became famous when a popular song was written in the mid-1800's, telling about children dancing on the bridge. Actually, dancing took place under the bridge. Their bad.
We spent too much time and had an unsatisfactory lunch at a cafe that ran out of whatever we ordered and had snail-paced service. We found the 13th century synagogue on whose steps rested several drunks. Not surprisingly, it was closed. We rang the bell under a sign indicating it should be open, but to no avail. David had emailed them a few times asking for an appointment, but had no response.
Late night. Tired. Tomorrow likely going to Nimes.
Toby
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