Friday, November 6, 2015

Rocks and Hard Place-Nice to Arles

Ouchy Beach

Hill Unclimbed

View From Acacias Hotel


Oct. 6, 2015-Arles

Rocks and Hard Place-Nice to Arles

Laundry accomplished! We walked our laundry bag to a self-service laundromat a few blocks from our hotel. Luckily, Bill from Philadelphia was there. He'd already figured out how to work the machines, pay station, and detergent dispenser. It was a maze of machine numbers, cost based on machine size, time needed, and on and on. We chatted while we ate our McDonald McBreakfasts and shared travel stories. When he left, we became the resident experts. In walked a tourist from Hungary who greatly appreciated our tutorial and went to get her wash.

That done, we walked about a dozen blocks to the promenade along the Mediterranean. It was vintage Cote d'Azur: sparkling blue glinting on pastel buildings lining the shore. Sort of like Miami. but, viva la difference, not in a good way. The beach was rocky. We knew it would be, but it wasn't pebbly. The rocks were the size of my fist. The temperature was heading for the mid to high 70's and people were sunbathing. Ouch!

The flower, produce, and crafts market was up and running in the old city. We strolled and inhaled the overpowering aroma of lavender sachet and soap. That was a hugely popular item. We resisted. I couldn't imagine traveling two more weeks with that odor in my luggage.

There was a hilltop garden we just didn't climb up to. It was 90 meters up several flights and the heat had gotten to us. As it turned out, museums close on Tuesdays, and the one we wanted to see, the Chagall, was under renovation. It was time for lunch.

We stayed with the French food theme of last night and had savory crepes. David ordered a meal that came with a chocolate and banana dessert crepe as big as a tennis racket. They come unfolded. They also featured gluten free crepes. I've noticed a lot of gluten free offerings on menus.

So that was Nice. I didn't love it. David adored the promenade. It was the first time we saw homeless sleeping on the street on this trip. It was also the first time we were warned about pick- pockets.

We decided to go to Arles for several days and use it as a base to day trip the area. It was a two hour forty-five minute drive including a hold up when our credit card wouldn't work at a toll-booth. Shades of the same problem in Italy, but this time a person who spoke English came to our lane and we paid cash. We went over very large mountains made easier to traverse by the toll-way. Well worth it.

Despite Our Lady's use of the term "slip road" which means highway ramp unless she actually says highway ramp, we were able to interpret her British English. We observed what might be a universal signal for speed trap; flashing headlights.


The Lady made a valiant effort getting us to the first hotel we put into the GPS, a Best Western. We chose it because we've had good experiences with them abroad. They're usually unique and pleasant. This was neither. It was filthy and decrepit. We went in search of our second choice, recommended by Frommer's or Rick Steves. It was in the old city. The Lady tried her best, but we ended up at a dead end.  A friendly woman with a little English knew where the hotel was, directed David to back up into a parking lot, and told me how to walk to the hotel. It wasn't far, but the only room they had was on the third floor (no lift) and we'd consolidated into one now very heavy carry-on size bag. The bed was small and they only had one night free. We hope to stay in Arles four or five nights.

But before she turned me loose, the Frenchwoman who'd directed us to this hotel told me she thought there was a hotel around the corner from the parking lot on the street next to the Rhone River. That's where I headed. We are now checked into the Acacias. We have a sitting room plus bedroom with king bed. We have A/C, WiFi, and free parking on the street if we get lucky. We did. The clerk apologized for the rate because it won't go down until Oct. 31, end of season. We're paying $75 a night. And it has a GoJo soap dispenser in the shower. Home sweet home.

We walked all around town looking for a restaurant. Most were closed by 8 PM. Odd. We ended up at the Vietnamese place next to our hotel. It's a good thing we did. There was a downpour as we were eating al fresco and we had to run inside. We didn't have pho but noted that it was only $8. Another day.

Another fashion blast! Short tapered jackets reaching only a bit below the waist is the rage here. Ladies, time to get rid of all those tunics.

I think we'll hang around Arles tomorrow.

Toby

No comments: