Cultural Explosion

Photos: Ataturk monument, Istiklal Street, Neve Shalom Synagogue

Oct. 20, 2022-Still Istanbul, Turkey Forty two civilizations have lived here. That’s a lot of culture to absorb. Excavations for Metros and new buildings often reveal antiquities that need to be worked around. Roman aqueducts and ancient cisterns interlace the multi-lane highways that merge with narrow cobbled streets not fit for taxis, strollers, and pedestrians. Somehow it all works. What doesn’t always work is trying to vie with hoards of tourists from cruise ships. This morning we climbed the hill to the Hagia Sophia and quickly decided to revamp our program. Rudy called our van and we traveled over the Golden Horn to Taksim Square. Today was sunny and peaceful, but the square is often the site of demonstrations of which Rudy has been a participant. The centerpiece of Taksim is a statue of Attaturk, considered the father of the country. He was a forward looking leader and Renaissance man who was President of the new republic from 1923-1938. He embraced the Latin alphabet, saw the need for railroads, and secularized the country. We walked down Istiklal Street gawking at designer goods, sweet shops, and restaurants. Rudy treated us to simit, a bagel shaped pretzel on our way to the Pera Palace Hotel where Agatha Christie wrote Murder on the Orient Express. It began raining so we ducked into the cafe at the hotel. We enjoyed the break and opportunity to sip coffee and tea while reclining on pink velvet banquettes set on pink marble floors surrounded by pink marble walls. Rudy arranged for David and me to tour the Jewish Museum and Neve Shalom Synagogue. The rest of the group was continuing on to the spice market. They walked us to the synagogue and went to the van. David and I tried to see the interior of the synagogue in 1994, but that was right after a terrorist bombing, so they weren’t allowing visitors. Today, the place was busy with mostly non-Jewish tourists. The synagogue itself was typical of any traditional one including a women’s balcony. Chairs were hard wooden theater seats and uncomfortable. The surrounding paneling and decorative wood was dark as well. The only bright spot was the stained glass window above the ark. To our delight, we began a conversation with non-Jewish sisters from Scotland. They were teachers on school break and traveled frequently. We traded tips and plans for “next trips” then spoke of Brexit (ambivalent) , the Queen (loved her) , and lack of civility around the world (frustrated). They asked about visiting Jordan and by the time we left, I think we’d convinced them to include Israel. The museum was well done with information on basic Jewish customs. We were more interested in the migration of Sephardic Jews. The Inquisitinon prompted emigration from Spain and Portugal and a wonderful map illustrated the dissemination of their Jewish populations. Turkey was most welcoming and attracted its fair portion of refugees. Rudy suggested we ask the people at the museum to help us get a cab. One man was happy to walk us to a main intersection and arrange a taxi for an honest metered fare. Our driver spoke tolerable English. He bragged that he was 62 years old and had been driving for 32 years. Believe me, we were grateful for his experience. Our plan was to eat at a restaurant recommended by an Akron friend, but it was out of reach being a ferry ride away and on the Asian side. We walked uphill to Kennedy St. near our hotel and found a place at random. We ordered lamb doner for two. It was made in a clay pot, flambéed at table side and cracked open with great ceremony. It cost $32 US. Prices here are comparable to home. On our way back to the hotel, we passed carpet shops that set me drooling. But, I decided not to buy in the city and perhaps not at all as we have several rugs at home and a kilim from our last trip here. Before we left Akron, our children cautioned that we needed to take care of each other. I told them that we were of an age that others on the trip would want to take care of us. This has proved to be true. We all point out unsure footing to each other, but Jerri took it upon herself to go further. Although oranges and persimmons are freely available at breakfast and at street vendors, bananas are not. Last night she went to a mini-mart and found us bananas. They were hanging on our door this morning. Our potassium had arrived. And Hagia Sophia? We saw it tonight when the cruise crowds were gone. Illuminated and surrounded by dark skies, it floated above the park. The last time we saw it there was scaffolding everywhere. Technicians were removing white plaster that Muslims had spread over Christian mosaics. Originally built as a Greek Orthodox Church in 360, it was converted to a mosque in 1453 when Constantinople fell to the Ottoman Turks. It was restored in 1935 in preparation for becoming a museum. In 2020, when the present government declared it to be a functioning mosque, fortunately, the mosaics remained. Since it was prayer time, women weren’t permitted in the main body of the space. Thank goodness for zoom on cameras. Three of us debated whether to storm the guards, but we didn’t want to see the inside of a Turkish jail. Walking back to the hotel , I used the Jedi hand Rudy had taught us to negotiate traffic. It’s two fingers pointed at the driver as a sign that we see each other. It worked! Tomorrow we fly to Cappadocia