Road to Camaguey

Jan. 24, 2018- Road to Camaguey

We headed West in blinding sunshine as we began a long day's drive to Camaguey. We hadn't gone far on this 6th day of the trip when we stopped at the first church we were to see in this supposedly Catholic country. Jose said that most Cubans practice a combination of Catholicism and Santeria. They cover the bases. 

In 1612, two farmers found a yellowed statue of a woman. Yellow means prosperity, so they took it back to their church. She became the Virgin de la Caridad del Cobre. Cobre means copper. Copper mining was begun by the Spanish and was the mainstay of the region. Yellow was associated with the industry, the virgin, and luck. The faithful bring offerings of yellow sunflowers and some dress in yellow when they visit. There was no shortage of flower stands on our approach. We entered the church as worship was ending. A woman was chanting as the priest prepared to sprinkle holy water on the congregation. We all got doused. I think I'm now Catholic in spots. 

The virgin del Cobre has been the patron saint of Cuba , especially of freed slaves. Africans prayed to her silently in their own language as they pretended to be Catholic for the Spanish. The duality of the religions carried on. Displays of crutches and other medical aids mingle with trophies and team shirts as people donate the goods in thanks for good fortune. 

It was our good fortune to be able to get close to donkeys grazing on the church lawn and later to find bananas at a roadside stand. The bus stopped and the driver bought several hands as a very easy to please group of American cheered. They were what we call fingerlings: sweet and delicious. 

We had a Shakespearean moment as we decided "to pee or not to pee" before boarding the bus for a 2- hour drive to Bayamo. As we approached that city in the Provence of Granma, Jose told us Bayamo was where the national anthem was sung for the first time in 1868. He said that the Spanish were suspicious when they first heard it but didn't catch on to the imminent threat. I don't know how they missed the implications. We listened to a recoding as Jose translated. It's quite "in your face" a call to arms.

In Bayamo we boarded buggies for a leisurely drive through the streets. It was bouncier than the bus which has the ability to sway up and down and from side to side simultaneously. The bus was built in China. I don't know what excuse the buggy had...maybe no springs. It was lovely to stroke the horse who our Hawaiian group member and horse owner declared to be in fine fettle.   

Lunch was at the Hotel Royalton. Afterwards we walked around the pedestrian way going in and out of stores that had small selections of similar merchandise. One of our group needed tweezers. It was not to be found. Food stores are the same. You buy what they have.

We did see ATMs but they weren't for the likes of us. Our cards won't work in them. I wouldn't even try for fear the machine would eat it.

Rest stops are well timed. Bathroom stalls have very low doors. Our heads and shoulders are visible when standing in the stall. As the women sit and stand while using the facilities, they look like a game of whack-a-mole.

Population is declining. Young people are leaving and putting off having children. When you ask for a Visa the government wants to see if you have a bank account or land. They pretty well know if you don't, you won't be back. Cubans can live abroad for two years and their assets will be protected. Travelers have an official list of what they can bring back or pay a tax if they're over the limit.

Tonight, we're in Camaguey. It was settled in 1514 by Velasquez. It is a UNESCO site and bears a more European flavor than we've seen. As we checked in for 2 nights at Hotel Grand situated on the pedestrian mall of the old area, our hotel representative sadly told us they were out of Internet cards. But, for their lapse, she would go to the nearby dispensary and purchase them for us. They're usable all over Cuba so we bought 5 hours-worth of time at I/4 what we paid at the Melia hotel in Santiago.

The hotel is very old and charming. The interior atrium is built like a New Orleans courtyard, wrought iron and all. Somehow, we have an "anteroom" to our bedroom, but there are only two chairs and a table. Not inviting. We have gone from two queen beds pushed together at the Melia to one queen for the two of us. The furnishings are rich wood trying to echo old Spanish style. They're inexpensive copies, but the attempt is worth it.

Dinner was at the hotel buffet. It was a sparse array of the typical salad (beets, cabbage, tomatoes, carrots) and bad cake and toppings. Luckily there was a tureen of soup. I had two bowls. That's one thing that has been consistently good here. There's a good variety and they're well-seasoned. We pre-ordered our mains. I had chicken breast that was so salty I didn't eat it. I stuck to rice and beans. I remembered a rice cake and peanut butter sandwich I had in my purse for emergencies. This was an emergency. 

After dinner we went up to the roof bar to look at the city at night. Stunning.

Tomorrow we spend the morning on foot attached to our headphones to better hear Jose.  

Toby

Church of Virgin de la Caridad del Cobre

Yellow Flowers as Offerings

Church Interior

Banana Stand

Guantanamo- Land Among the Rivers

Jan. 23, 2018- Guantanamo- Land Among the Rivers 

Every day is more interesting than the last. I'm loving encounters with musicians and listening to the unique sounds of the island. The artists are talented and appealing to us. So far, we've bought two inexpensive prints. The cost of framing them will set us back.

Guantanamo has GTMO signs over some stores but it has nothing to do with the US base now. A few locals worked at the base, but when they retired, they were replaced with Jamaicans and other English speaking islanders. 

The population of the Provence is a Creole blend of French, Haitian, and Cuban. We went to Tumba Francesa, a Creole club that preserves old music, songs, and dances. Many stem from slavery and mock the French gentry. The oldest dancer was 74, and moved like the Energizer bunny. Tumba means drums and the repetitive, simple, visceral beat was echoed in the dancers' feet. At the end, the dancers asked several in the audience to join them. They partnered up. Alas, I wasn't asked to dance. During the program, I noticed a man on the street who was sketching. When we exited, he offered to sell or give me my caricature. I hope it was a caricature. His take made me look like a woodpecker. Actually, with my nose and hair, that's not far off.

At 11:30 AM, we were at the House of Changui being offered rum and coke. I drank it. Changui is Haitian slave music played on old and some improvised instruments. The musicians were all in white and sang with spirit as they moved to the beat.

Lunch was at Paladare El Karey. The usual. We learned that the two women traveling together are both married to Jewish men. I also found our Trump supporter. He didn't vote for him, but regaled me with why Trump is doing a good job. I listened and told him I disagreed with everything he just said. We then chatted about his work as a surgeon in Africa. 

We met with Carlos Rafael, an artist, and his wife, Sandra. She has a news program on TV and is more famous in Cuba than he. There's a tradition of placing a cactus over the door to your house as a symbol of love. Unfortunately, his cactus is dying, but the way he looked at his wife, I think the marriage is intact. A cactus is better than hanging a dried llama fetus in the house as they do in Peru. Carlos is successful and gives back by running an art school for 7-12-year olds during the summer.

On our ride to GTMO, Jose answered questions about the old American cars so popular here. In 1963, 1500 of those cars were in Havana. They were stranded when the law changed and importation and exportation was forbidden. In their inimitable way, Cubans figured out that to keep them running they had to be creative. They soon realized that Japanese and Soviet auto parts worked in American cars. The new cars we've seen are government cars. The government uses them for 3 years then gives them to deserving employees or even sports stars. Those people are permitted to sell them. Some here seem to be "more equal."

We remarked on the cleanliness of roads and streets. In a dictatorship it's easy to enforce laws and punishments, even for cleanliness. They also recycle like crazy. 

Raoul Castro has helped with the transition from Cuban Communism to a more moderate form. Jose sees Cuba retaining free education & health care, but capitalism will worm its way in as more people take advantage of entrepreneurship.

Raoul will retire soon. The people have elected their local representatives. Those reps appointed national reps to a general assembly. That assembly will appoint the next president. He or she will likely be younger (50's) and progressive.

Jose told us that the song, Guantanamera, was written as a love song without words. Pete Seger wanted to record it and asked a Cuban musician friend what the words were. He was told there were none, but a poem by Jose Marti would work. Seger was the first to record that song with lyrics.

There is no private gun ownership here. There is capital punishment by firing squad.

He said that there are equal rights laws for the LGBT community, but no marriage yet. Raoul Castro's daughter pushed the legislation through. She's married with children and an ardent supporter of civil rights. We discussed our family and a bit about PFLAG. Ray, the 90-year old who keeps up with the group well, piped up that he belonged to PFLAG and HRC and has the emblems on his car. Jose said he's in total agreement with an accepting society and showed us a photo of is wife. She's white and blond.

We learned that the Sierra Maestro and Sierra Madre Mts. were one and the same.

Yes, we still have no banana. Jose is still looking.

Hippopotamus in Spanish is "hippopotamo." We found two but didn't like either. We're getting bold.

Ingenuity is the stuff of Cuba. We spotted what they call a "camel" because of its shape. It's a semi pulling what looks like a large horse van. It's used as a bus and is crammed full of people. 

Manuel reimbursed us all for tips we've been leaving for the hotel maid. Road Scholar said all tips were included. They really meant it...except for bathroom ladies. 

Sadly, our bus was following behind a truck with a horse in the rear bed. It took us awhile to figure out why the horse was laying down and its legs were tied. He had a broken leg. Jose surmised they were on the way to the vet (free) and the horse would be put down. No, they don't use horse meat in dog food. The bus driver did his best to pass the truck quickly. It was excruciating to see.

On a lighter note, Manuel reminded us that we could reach him on his phone or in his room. When he tried to tell us the room number, he couldn't remember. I did. I'd written it down yesterday. I called out the number to lots of laughter. 

For our first dinner on our own, we stayed at the hotel and went to the Italian restaurant with others in our group.

Tomorrow we have a long drive to Cameguay with a few stops along the way. Remember, there may be days without email...maybe even until we get to Havana in 3 or 4 days.

Toby

Old Ways

Tumba Dancing

Tumba Dancing Queen

Typical Town

Santiago Walkabout

Jan. 22, 2018-Santiago Walkabout

Go Vikings! Sorry about that. The Minnesotans on our tour were wearing their purple Vikiing gear to no avail. They watched the game in the bar so perhaps they weren't feeling great pain.

Be careful what you wish for. Today was sunny and HOT. Only a welcome sprinkle. When we all got into the elevator after touring, it smelled ripe. 

I haven't established a timeline of Cuban history in my head. Jose jumps around depending on what we're seeing. As I understand it, there were three tribes of indigenous people here. Columbus landed. Others followed as Cuba was a good intermediate stop from S. America and Florida to Europe. But, hold on. England owned a piece of Cuba for a short time. They were bought off by giving Florida to England so Spain could have all of Cuba. The joke is that now Cubans are taking Florida back.

Spain was in control. Cubans fought the Spaniards for freedom many times and lost. The US wanted Cuba for itself so joined Cuba in what we call the Spanish American War. Teddy Roosevelt and the Rough Riders stormed San Juan Hill. The Maine sank. Still no victory for independence. Jose Marti sought refuge in New York City and lived there writing his insurrectionist poetry. He inspired another attempt at independence.

Spain held on until their fleet was caught in Morro Bay near the fortifications. As they sailed out into the ocean, they were picked off by US ships. Spain negotiated an agreement with the US without input from Cuba. Spain didn't recognize a Cuban government. The US was allowed to keep Guantanamo and was given Puerto Rico. Ironically, as we climbed to the monument on San Juan Hill, there were no commemorative plaques for Cubans who had fought and died with Americans.

We parked the bus near what was now a school, but bore bullet holes from when Castro attacked Batista's troops in what was then a garrison. Fidel lost and Batista went on a killing spree. He ordered the arrest, torture, and death of any young men he could gather up in Santiago whether they participated with Fidel or not. He put Fidel in prison, but made a fatal error. Elections were coming up. To curry favor, Batista freed all prisoners including Castro. Castro was told to flee to Mexico where he met Che Guevara. 

From the school we walked to the 16th century home of Velasquez, which has been turned into a museum. Art and furniture was collected from around Cuba and shows the evolution of decor from Spanish to French to US New Orleans styles. Eventually, it blended to form a uniquely Cuban flavor.

Morro Castle was next. It was built by the same architect who designed the fort in Havana and San Juan, Puerto Rico. We walked around, but the sun was blazing. We ate lunch in the shadow of the walls of Morro overlooking the bay. 

Fuller, but no cooler, we went to our last stop, a music school. The 600 students aged 7-80 attend for free. If they play an instrument other than a piano, they have to provide it. It's an after-school program for the kids. By 9th grade audition to continue. 

From nothing can come something. I seem to be full of platitudes. The school is not air conditioned, of course. Hurricane Sandy did enough damage that ceiling tiles are still missing. But the colorful original tile floor is intact. There are 40 teachers who work with students in practice rooms with peeling paint and doors hanging by a thread. From this atmosphere they presented a short recital. I wanted to adopt the 7 year old girl ,Kira, who sang "My Heart Will Go On" in Spanglish. She looked nervous, but stood up straight in her pink halter top, white shorts, and line of colorful barrettes in her hair and didn't miss a note. A couple of boys played violin and a 19-year old with his name, Max, buzzed into his hair played sax.

Now for a bit of cocktail history. The Floridita Hotel Bar in Havana was Hemingway's favorite. Cuban peasants drank a blend of lemon juice and boiled water that the bartender thought was interesting. He added sugar, ice, and rum to it. These people were from a town called "Daiquiri." TaDa!

We heard a lecture on US/Cuban relations from Professor Herbert Perez this afternoon. He studied in the US but has mainly lived in Cuba. He claimed that since the American Revolution, the US has looked towards Cuba as a country they wanted to control. They held on to what was called the Ripe Fruit Policy. They wanted to wait for Spain to weaken and then the US would sweep in. America never wanted Cuba to be liberated despite fighting with them against Spain. In fact, in 1865, the US sold weapons to Spain, not Cuban rebels. In 1898, when Spain's hold weakened, the US moved in to "help" and actually occupied Cuba for 4 years. Anti-American sentiment grew in Cuba and anti-imperialist pressure came from the US. We withdrew in 1902. The Platte Amendment was passed giving the US the right to hold all properties they'd held (seized) while in Cuba including Guantanamo and could intervene if their interests in Cuba were threatened. It was thought that the US ambassador to Cuba had more power than the Cuban president. 

Sugar cane had been booming, but prices fell in the 1920's and '30's. Haitian and Jamaican workers had come in during the boom, but with the crash, those immigrants were seen as a threat to Cuban workers. Whether he meant to or not, Prof. Perez made a case against immigration. WW II and the Korean wars were good for the sugar industry. Afterwards the US recognized and supported Cuban dictators. The US was anti- revolution and took steps to overthrow and kill Castro. Embargoes were begun and Cuban refugees were welcomed to our shores. 

Perez referred to the US empire. During Q & A, I asked him what countries were in that empire. He answered that modern empires are those who exert economic and political control over other countries. I remarked that we shouldn't have been surprised when Russia tried to interfere in our elections since we've been interfering in others' elections for years. He thought that Russia was too smart to try something so stupid. I asked if he thought there might have been a Cuban connection to the Kennedy assassination. He said that Fidel was not stupid and wouldn't do what was expected. His brilliance was doing the unexpected. 

All through his talk, he berated the US treatment of Cuba, but, in the end, he was disappointed that borders that were about to open were abruptly closed by Trump. I guess he doesn't have to like us to realize Cuba needs our trade and economic investment. Even with other countries' interests, the US is the closest and most logical economic friend. Cuba is still a poor country whose people are suffering from privation.

Dinner was almost gourmet level. We went to Restaurant St. Pauli and enjoyed beautiful versions of food we'd been eating all along. Flavors were delicious and presentation upscale.

Jose is going on a banana quest for us. This is his home town so he sleeps home at night. He said he'd shop on his way in tomorrow.

Tomorrow we go to Guantanamo, the city, not the base.

The day after tomorrow we move hotels. Don't panic if I don't send for a couple of days or longer.

Toby

Minnesota Vikings Fan

7 year old Kira

Sax player

View from Melia Hotel

Santiago de Cuba

Jan. 21, 2018- Santiago de Cuba

Sorry there are no pictures. We finally got to the Melia Hotel in Santiago and can buy internet cards. We pay by the hour, and it would take too long to upload photos. I'll probably send them from home.

We had a long driving day. That gave Jose a chance to show us his knowledge of fauna. There isn't much, but he knew the Latin, Spanish, and English names of the critters he mentioned including some of the smallest frogs in the world. 

This country's motto could be "waste not want not." On this, our first rainless day, we bussed back to Holguin (city of parks and artists) to visit a printing shop. It sounded mundane, but this is a place that makes its own paper from any recycled paper that comes its way. They soak it in a bucket then put it in an old Soviet washing machine that is past its usefulness for washing clothes. The pulp emerges and the process continues. They add products to the pulp if required to make it decorative. We saw examples of paper with flowers, leaves, sand, etc. imbedded. No chemicals are used.

All books printed at the studio are made with their paper. They use salvaged printing equipment from the early 1900's. Two machines were made in Cleveland, Ohio. The Linotype machine was fascinating and surely qualifies as an early computer. Elsewhere digital printing is the rule.

Lights just went out as I'm writing. So much for the fancy new hotel.

Onward with our cultural exchange. We went to see a performance by mid-level and advanced opera students. They were exceptional and we enjoyed their full rich tones. Their education starts at 14 years old and includes

Lights out again.

dance, voice, and acting lessons. They perform locally, and some are lucky enough to tour overseas. The hall we were in looked like a dance studio with an uneven wood floor, mirrored wall, metal roof, and mold on the interior walls.

Despite getting caught in a buggy jam ala the Holmes County Amish community, we succeeded in climbing the Hill of the Cross. We drove up rather than attempt the 450 steps. So far, this has not been a physically active trip. Indeed, there was a cross at the top. A priest placed it there to protect the city. I hope his luck continues, although Hurricane Sandy did a number here.

We later met with a print artist and sculptor, Silvio Perez, at his studio. His next project is a life size bronze statue of Hemingway sitting at his favorite bar in Havana. And, yes, Jose assured us he's taking us to Hemingway's house and other sites prohibited to us. He said he's not forbidden from going. We can follow.

Lunch was at Finca de Cieba, a family farm. It was a buffet of the usual foods. 

Santiago de Cuba is in a valley surrounded by the Sierra Maestro Mts. We descended on a four-lane highway into the big city. There were actual city buses, new apartment buildings, and traffic lights. Military and political billboards are common.

Next stop was at Cemetery Ifgenia founded in 1868. Buried there are Fidel Castro and Jose Marti. Fidel's monument is a huge simple boulder. Marti has an elaborate, domed, building on a high mound. The monument is filled with symbolism. Old marble tombs and monuments stretch on and on. They are re-used by families for generations. The custom is that a body is exhumed sometime after two years and the bones are cleaned by the family or others who may help. It was described as an arduous and emotional experience. The bones are then buried in a box that is placed in a wall (mausoleum). Cremation is being encouraged (Fidel was cremated) due to lack of space. Funerals and burials are free, but there is a fee for cremation. The cemetery was pristine with marble walkways, manicured lawns, and gleaming stones. Some of the  dead of Cuba are in better surroundings than they had in life.

When our luggage arrived in our room at the Melia Santiago de Cuba, it looked as if it had liposuction. Since removing the gifts we brought, our large duffel has deflated. I'll have to fill it up with purchases.

Dinner was a buffet in our hotel. I know I ate a lot, but don't feel as if I had a meal. I do know that the ice cream was wonderful. We walked around the hotel with another couple for a bit afterwards. At the pool we were approached by a young man who asked if we were Americans. They answered that they were. He told us how much he loves America and what a shame it is that things have changed. He went on about how things are different here and he can go to church and be a Christian now. He offered to show us around the pool area. We begged off. As we walked away we signaled to the couple that he'd expect a tip. They should have an interesting story at breakfast.

Tomorrow we begin our tour of Santiago. We're here three nights. Laundry time!

Aha! I CAN add photos!

Toby

Soviet Washing Machine

Waiting for the Opera (or a bus)

Opera Students

Gibara and Beyond

Jan. 20, 2018- Gibara and Beyond

What doesn't kill you makes you stronger.

We had a long (1 hr. 45 min.) drive today. Jose, our Cuban guide, had a chance to talk to us and answer questions. The lesson today was on how resilient the Cuban people are.

The Cuban Revolution resulted in Batista being overthrown and Fidel Castro taking leadership. Fidel was a Communist. The US broke diplomatic relations leaving an opening for the USSR. The occupation by the USSR was symbiotic to a point. They took all the sugar Cuba could produce and traded it for oil. After Perestroika, the Soviets pulled out.  Cuba was left in isolation. They had to re-invent themselves. Their farms were dependent on chemical fertilizer based on petroleum products. They were only getting a pittance of oil from Russia. They went back to basics.

There were five years of starvation before they began to benefit from their dilemma. Farming became organic. Oxen and horses were used to cultivate instead of tractors. They found that tractors compacted the fields they harvested while the hooves of animals plowed it up. They began using by-products of the vast sugar cane production. It became fuel, fertilizer, and food for animals. After sugar cane produced rum and molasses, alcohol was used for medicines. Cuba has created medicine for treatment of diabetic ulcers, lung cancer, and others that are used world-wide, except for the US. They were into solar and wind energy early on.

The government still controls sugar cane, tobacco, coffee, rum, and cattle, but entrepreneurs are being encouraged. Urban farming is popular. Free land and buildings for stores can be had for rental payments. Foreigners are being lured to invest. With free medical care and education, taxes are needed. Infrastructure needs major attention. Deals are being made with China and India for Cuba to improve ports so oil can be drilled off-shore. The Cuban government taxes them at 51%. The US had plans to join the party. Not now.

Education is compulsory to age nine. So many are graduating from university that there's a lack of skilled workers. After university, people are encouraged to get free technical training and be certified as plumbers, electricians, etc. 

But Raoul Castro has identified a serious problem where the old system has failed. Every person in Cuba gets a ration book regardless of economic status. It is customized as to age and medical need. He sees that people have gotten lazy and need an incentive to work. He wants to streamline the welfare program to include only those in need. He will leave office and for the first time in decades there will not be a Castro as leader. It's wait and see. 

Jose pointed out that the people we passed were white. This part of Cuba is where Spaniards settled and their descendants stayed. They weren't big slave owners as were those in other parts. There are 12% pure blacks now. Others are white or mixed. Prejudice is not unknown. Jose is black.

He explained that his father was sent to the USSR, learned Russian, and worked for Cuba as a translator. He taught his children Russian. As a young boy, Jose lived near Guantanamo. One day he found an American radio station. He listened, learned, spoke to other English speakers in Cuba, and took English in school. He also learned French at university. He's very employable as a guide, but after our government issued a travel warning, tourism from the US fell off drastically. 

Our original destination was a rum distillery, but the bus couldn't navigate the muddy roads. We went on to Puerto Padre. Despite intermittent rain (someone in this group has bad weather karma--not us), we trekked through mud to hear a jazz band. They were men from the local classical concert band who branched out forming a government supported group. Each played one of four saxes (soprano, tenor, alto, bass). They were excellent and fun. After all, this is a people to people cultural learning experience, not a tour. They didn't play Guantanamera. 

Lunch was at Conchita Farms for a pig roast. The farm is run by three generations of a family. It's totally organic. I must say our group leader is on top of our dietary needs and had chicken ready. Somehow the Jewish group members were at our table and they figured it out.

Since vehicles are scarce, horses and bikes are basic transportation. There are horseback riders, horse drawn two-seater wagons and those that are fabric covered ala Conestogas that carry as many people as fit in.

When we returned to the hotel, we walked around Gibara and down to the Malancon (waterfront promenade). Before we started, I took a picture of our very muddy bus. A man walking alongside the bus asked me for a dollar. He said I took his photo. I didn't. He wasn't in the picture. I now know that "f...you" is the same in Spanish and English.

 Our group is diverse in age and geography. We have a Hawaiian and Aussies. There's a 90 year old who walks a mile every day and drives an hour each way twice a week for square dancing. The Hawaiian lives on a farm, the Aussies live in the US for long stretches, the Minnesotans live five hours north of Mnpls, there's an ophthalmologist who seems bitter about how medicine has gone, the woman from Santa Fe is a paper artist, two women from California are here without husbands, the people from Connecticut are still an unknown quantity except that they're Jewish.

Have pity on us. The only English TV is CNN. We have now heard the same government shutdown story ad nauseum. On the positive side, electricity stayed on all night.

A clarification of Internet cards... The hotel doesn't sell them. The post office does. It wasn't open when we left town or returned. Sorry if you get multiple emails at once.

We both had killer headaches yesterday evening. We determined it was the humidity and not government orchestrated. So far, our hearing is intact. I decided to risk rinsing my toothbrush under the tap. I thought I was brave, but another woman is using hotel water to rinse her mouth after brushing.

Dinner was at Paradore Peria deal Norte. Lovely. The Aussies ordered a bottle of wine. They could choose Chilean or Chilean. That's the go-to country for wine here. We were told that meals would be predictable. Tonight was fish and chicken, rice, dried plantains. To change it up there were no beans.

We go to Santiago de Cuba tomorrow where Jose has contacts in the Jewish community. He seems to know the presidents of congregations all around the country. I think it's his business to know everyone. Manuel gives us an itinerary for a few days ahead. He includes a weather prediction. Tomorrow it will be "hot and hummed."

Toby

Sax Serenade

Conestoga-like wagon

Gibara, Cuba

Jan, 19, 2018- Gibara, Cuba

We had an uneventful flight (the best kind) from Miami to Holguin, Cuba. Making our way through check-in and immigration was another story. The process wasn't problematic. It was slow. There were unfamiliar steps to be taken. For example, we had to get our boarding passes stamped to prove we entered legally in case we had to use their medical facilities. Crowds were large on both ends. The plane was packed. Cubans with Visas to visit the US were returning with arms full of purchases and multiple shrink-wrapped suitcases. Since the US embassy is short staffed, they have to go to Columbia or Mexico to get Visas.

Due to the 8 lbs of distilled water for his CPAP that David needed to pack in checked luggage, we were over by a few pounds. Luckily, our agent knew someone with the same name he'd gone to high school with. He asked if David had gone to SW Miami High (Go Eagles), and indeed he had. Even though he wasn't the same David Horowitz and was 20 years older, the agent let the overweight fee slide. At one point I was afraid they'd burst into song and croon the fight song.

We filled out health forms that had to be presented on entering Cuba. There was a woman in a 1950's style white nurse's uniform, starched white cap and all, checking the forms. There were also men in white doctor's coats running around organizing the lines. We checked all the "no" boxes and sailed through. At customs I was asked if I had been to Brazil. I had been years ago but thought it safer to say I hadn't. They're checking for Zika. We didn't realize it before, but a map showed us that we are now in the Zika Zone. We were later told that Ebola and dengue fever are more common in Cuba. Oh joy!

Our bus is Chinese made and surprisingly comfortable. We're a small group and could easily each have our own seat. Although it's supposed to be the dry season, they've had lots of rain. The roads are muddy and, in one case, disappeared entirely into a quagmire. It's also chilly. 

We're near the Eastern end of the island. It's mostly agricultural. As we landed I said that it looked a bit like Kansas. We ate lunch at a paladare, a privately owned restaurant. We had their version of fajitas. It's minus tortillas. To Cubans, a tortilla is an omelette. It was accompanied by fabulous yucca, rice and beans, and a dollop of sweet potato purée. It was preceded by a lovely fruit salad including guava and a green salad. Dessert was coffee ice cream and flan. We won't go hungry. On our short walk back to the bus we passed a park with a large statue. Evidently, they had a problem similar to the one we have with Confederate statues. They took down monuments of Spanish colonial heroes and replaced them with freedom fighters.

I slept during the hour-long drive to the Hotel E. Ordono in Gibara. The town is set on the bay where Columbus landed and found shelter for his ships. Our hotel was a private home in colonial times. It has been renovated, restored and converted into a charming place. I love the pastel and white exteriors of the old days. The disconnect is, as we expected, the rest of the buildings. They are as squalid as any we've seen, even in India. We have seen the infamous 1950's cars which look less pristine than in pictures. Even the pedi-cabs are more rickety and squalid than India. Some of our group took a walk before dinner and were able to peek into lighted rooms. They said some places were renovated and quite nice. (Maybe we're actually in India. The electricity has gone off three times but only for a few minutes.)

Alas, we were welcomed graciously by the hotel with damp, cold, perfumed hand towels. Some pink drink was offered. Comparables to Mariachis were playing Guantanamera. We were assured we'll hear it at each hotel. The rooms exceeded our expectations and David has only tripped on the step into the bathroom twice. The hotel has WiFi, but did not have internet cards. Stores in town that sell them were closed. I don't know what an Internet card is, but it's our Golden ticket to the outside world.

Dinner was adequate with what I think will be a common dessert of ice-cream and flan. Strolling musicians played throughout the meal. They were quite good but limited the conversation. After all, we're a group of hard of hearing seniors.

David was able to change money. He was careful to get cucs and not pesos, BTW, it's pronounced "kooks." Cucs have pictures of monuments and pesos have pictures of famous Cubans. 

And the lights went out again after dinner. Oy! If that happens while we're sleeping David's CPAP will turn off and he'll wake up.

Can't wait for tomorrow's adventures.

Toby 

Minstrels

Saddle of Gibara Mts.

Typical housing

Miami

Horowitz Travel-Jan. 18, 2018-Miami

Off we go again. Another Horowitz travel adventure. This time it's Cuba for two weeks.

Although I will write an email about our experiences nightly, the WiFi in Cuba is reputed to be scarce and unreliable. If I can't send them to you while we're abroad, I'll catch you up when we return to the US.

Our phones will be on airplane mode so as not to accidentally incur charges. There is no overseas "plan" for Cuba other than a high per minute rate. Therefore, we will not be receiving or sending texts or calls from Cuba. Email communication will work, and our family has emergency contact info. 

We arrived at the hotel in Miami (Doubletree Airport) tonight for an orientation meeting with our tour director, Manuel Renteria. He's of Basque descent and has been to Cuba 65 times. He has a good sense of humor. An example is that he told us that if we're approached on the street and asked where we're from we should say we're Canadian. Cubans view Americans as generous and an easy touch. Canadians are seen as standoffish. 

We'll be exchanging our US dollars for Cuban Cucs. It is a convertible currency used by foreigners, whereas residents use Cuban pesos. One dollar is worth 87cents in Cucs. It’s sent by the Cuban government. Euros and Canadian dollars float with the market.

There are fourteen people in our group. They seem pleasant, well -travelled, and friendly. I suspect we may have some Trump supporters. We'll be careful until we get a feel for their politics.

We leave the hotel at 7:30 AM tomorrow. Our charter flight is American Airlines (#1041) and leaves at 10:30 AM. That's all flexible. As Manuel said, flexibility is a must on this trip. 

Good night.

Toby

Our Destination