Tripping With Toby: Santiago de Cuba

Jan. 21, 2018- Santiago de Cuba

Sorry there are no pictures. We finally got to the Melia Hotel in Santiago and can buy internet cards. We pay by the hour, and it would take too long to upload photos. I'll probably send them from home.

We had a long driving day. That gave Jose a chance to show us his knowledge of fauna. There isn't much, but he knew the Latin, Spanish, and English names of the critters he mentioned including some of the smallest frogs in the world.

This country's motto could be "waste not want not." On this, our first rainless day, we bussed back to Holguin (city of parks and artists) to visit a printing shop. It sounded mundane, but this is a place that makes its own paper from any recycled paper that comes its way. They soak it in a bucket then put it in an old Soviet washing machine that is past its usefulness for washing clothes. The pulp emerges and the process continues. They add products to the pulp if required to make it decorative. We saw examples of paper with flowers, leaves, sand, etc. imbedded. No chemicals are used.

All books printed at the studio are made with their paper. They use salvaged printing equipment from the early 1900's. Two machines were made in Cleveland, Ohio. The Linotype machine was fascinating and surely qualifies as an early computer. Elsewhere digital printing is the rule.

Lights just went out as I'm writing. So much for the fancy new hotel.

Onward with our cultural exchange. We went to see a performance by mid-level and advanced opera students. They were exceptional and we enjoyed their full rich tones. Their education starts at 14 years old and includes

Lights out again.

dance, voice, and acting lessons. They perform locally, and some are lucky enough to tour overseas. The hall we were in looked like a dance studio with an uneven wood floor, mirrored wall, metal roof, and mold on the interior walls.

Despite getting caught in a buggy jam ala the Holmes County Amish community, we succeeded in climbing the Hill of the Cross. We drove up rather than attempt the 450 steps. So far, this has not been a physically active trip. Indeed, there was a cross at the top. A priest placed it there to protect the city. I hope his luck continues, although Hurricane Sandy did a number here.

We later met with a print artist and sculptor, Silvio Perez, at his studio. His next project is a life size bronze statue of Hemingway sitting at his favorite bar in Havana. And, yes, Jose assured us he's taking us to Hemingway's house and other sites prohibited to us. He said he's not forbidden from going. We can follow.

Lunch was at Finca de Cieba, a family farm. It was a buffet of the usual foods.

Santiago de Cuba is in a valley surrounded by the Sierra Maestro Mts. We descended on a four-lane highway into the big city. There were actual city buses, new apartment buildings, and traffic lights. Military and political billboards are common.

Next stop was at Cemetery Ifgenia founded in 1868. Buried there are Fidel Castro and Jose Marti. Fidel's monument is a huge simple boulder. Marti has an elaborate, domed, building on a high mound. The monument is filled with symbolism. Old marble tombs and monuments stretch on and on. They are re-used by families for generations. The custom is that a body is exhumed sometime after two years and the bones are cleaned by the family or others who may help. It was described as an arduous and emotional experience. The bones are then buried in a box that is placed in a wall (mausoleum). Cremation is being encouraged (Fidel was cremated) due to lack of space. Funerals and burials are free, but there is a fee for cremation. The cemetery was pristine with marble walkways, manicured lawns, and gleaming stones. Some of the dead of Cuba are in better surroundings than they had in life.

When our luggage arrived in our room at the Melia Santiago de Cuba, it looked as if it had liposuction. Since removing the gifts we brought, our large duffel has deflated. I'll have to fill it up with purchases.

Dinner was a buffet in our hotel. I know I ate a lot, but don't feel as if I had a meal. I do know that the ice cream was wonderful. We walked around the hotel with another couple for a bit afterwards. At the pool we were approached by a young man who asked if we were Americans. They answered that they were. He told us how much he loves America and what a shame it is that things have changed. He went on about how things are different here and he can go to church and be a Christian now. He offered to show us around the pool area. We begged off. As we walked away we signaled to the couple that he'd expect a tip. They should have an interesting story at breakfast.

Tomorrow we begin our tour of Santiago. We're here three nights. Laundry time!

Aha! I CAN add photos!

Toby