Gibara, Cuba

Jan, 19, 2018- Gibara, Cuba

We had an uneventful flight (the best kind) from Miami to Holguin, Cuba. Making our way through check-in and immigration was another story. The process wasn't problematic. It was slow. There were unfamiliar steps to be taken. For example, we had to get our boarding passes stamped to prove we entered legally in case we had to use their medical facilities. Crowds were large on both ends. The plane was packed. Cubans with Visas to visit the US were returning with arms full of purchases and multiple shrink-wrapped suitcases. Since the US embassy is short staffed, they have to go to Columbia or Mexico to get Visas.

Due to the 8 lbs of distilled water for his CPAP that David needed to pack in checked luggage, we were over by a few pounds. Luckily, our agent knew someone with the same name he'd gone to high school with. He asked if David had gone to SW Miami High (Go Eagles), and indeed he had. Even though he wasn't the same David Horowitz and was 20 years older, the agent let the overweight fee slide. At one point I was afraid they'd burst into song and croon the fight song.

We filled out health forms that had to be presented on entering Cuba. There was a woman in a 1950's style white nurse's uniform, starched white cap and all, checking the forms. There were also men in white doctor's coats running around organizing the lines. We checked all the "no" boxes and sailed through. At customs I was asked if I had been to Brazil. I had been years ago but thought it safer to say I hadn't. They're checking for Zika. We didn't realize it before, but a map showed us that we are now in the Zika Zone. We were later told that Ebola and dengue fever are more common in Cuba. Oh joy!

Our bus is Chinese made and surprisingly comfortable. We're a small group and could easily each have our own seat. Although it's supposed to be the dry season, they've had lots of rain. The roads are muddy and, in one case, disappeared entirely into a quagmire. It's also chilly. 

We're near the Eastern end of the island. It's mostly agricultural. As we landed I said that it looked a bit like Kansas. We ate lunch at a paladare, a privately owned restaurant. We had their version of fajitas. It's minus tortillas. To Cubans, a tortilla is an omelette. It was accompanied by fabulous yucca, rice and beans, and a dollop of sweet potato purée. It was preceded by a lovely fruit salad including guava and a green salad. Dessert was coffee ice cream and flan. We won't go hungry. On our short walk back to the bus we passed a park with a large statue. Evidently, they had a problem similar to the one we have with Confederate statues. They took down monuments of Spanish colonial heroes and replaced them with freedom fighters.

I slept during the hour-long drive to the Hotel E. Ordono in Gibara. The town is set on the bay where Columbus landed and found shelter for his ships. Our hotel was a private home in colonial times. It has been renovated, restored and converted into a charming place. I love the pastel and white exteriors of the old days. The disconnect is, as we expected, the rest of the buildings. They are as squalid as any we've seen, even in India. We have seen the infamous 1950's cars which look less pristine than in pictures. Even the pedi-cabs are more rickety and squalid than India. Some of our group took a walk before dinner and were able to peek into lighted rooms. They said some places were renovated and quite nice. (Maybe we're actually in India. The electricity has gone off three times but only for a few minutes.)

Alas, we were welcomed graciously by the hotel with damp, cold, perfumed hand towels. Some pink drink was offered. Comparables to Mariachis were playing Guantanamera. We were assured we'll hear it at each hotel. The rooms exceeded our expectations and David has only tripped on the step into the bathroom twice. The hotel has WiFi, but did not have internet cards. Stores in town that sell them were closed. I don't know what an Internet card is, but it's our Golden ticket to the outside world.

Dinner was adequate with what I think will be a common dessert of ice-cream and flan. Strolling musicians played throughout the meal. They were quite good but limited the conversation. After all, we're a group of hard of hearing seniors.

David was able to change money. He was careful to get cucs and not pesos, BTW, it's pronounced "kooks." Cucs have pictures of monuments and pesos have pictures of famous Cubans. 

And the lights went out again after dinner. Oy! If that happens while we're sleeping David's CPAP will turn off and he'll wake up.

Can't wait for tomorrow's adventures.

Toby 

Minstrels

Saddle of Gibara Mts.

Typical housing