Tripping With Toby: Road to Camaguey

Jan. 24, 2018- Road to Camaguey

We headed West in blinding sunshine as we began a long day's drive to Camaguey. We hadn't gone far on this 6th day of the trip when we stopped at the first church we were to see in this supposedly Catholic country. Jose said that most Cubans practice a combination of Catholicism and Santeria. They cover the bases.

In 1612, two farmers found a yellowed statue of a woman. Yellow means prosperity, so they took it back to their church. She became the Virgin de la Caridad del Cobre. Cobre means copper. Copper mining was begun by the Spanish and was the mainstay of the region. Yellow was associated with the industry, the virgin, and luck. The faithful bring offerings of yellow sunflowers and some dress in yellow when they visit. There was no shortage of flower stands on our approach. We entered the church as worship was ending. A woman was chanting as the priest prepared to sprinkle holy water on the congregation. We all got doused. I think I'm now Catholic in spots.

The virgin del Cobre has been the patron saint of Cuba , especially of freed slaves. Africans prayed to her silently in their own language as they pretended to be Catholic for the Spanish. The duality of the religions carried on. Displays of crutches and other medical aids mingle with trophies and team shirts as people donate the goods in thanks for good fortune.

It was our good fortune to be able to get close to donkeys grazing on the church lawn and later to find bananas at a roadside stand. The bus stopped and the driver bought several hands as a very easy to please group of American cheered. They were what we call fingerlings: sweet and delicious.

We had a Shakespearean moment as we decided "to pee or not to pee" before boarding the bus for a 2- hour drive to Bayamo. As we approached that city in the Provence of Granma, Jose told us Bayamo was where the national anthem was sung for the first time in 1868. He said that the Spanish were suspicious when they first heard it but didn't catch on to the imminent threat. I don't know how they missed the implications. We listened to a recoding as Jose translated. It's quite "in your face" a call to arms.

In Bayamo we boarded buggies for a leisurely drive through the streets. It was bouncier than the bus which has the ability to sway up and down and from side to side simultaneously. The bus was built in China. I don't know what excuse the buggy had...maybe no springs. It was lovely to stroke the horse who our Hawaiian group member and horse owner declared to be in fine fettle.

Lunch was at the Hotel Royalton. Afterwards we walked around the pedestrian way going in and out of stores that had small selections of similar merchandise. One of our group needed tweezers. It was not to be found. Food stores are the same. You buy what they have.

We did see ATMs but they weren't for the likes of us. Our cards won't work in them. I wouldn't even try for fear the machine would eat it.

Rest stops are well timed. Bathroom stalls have very low doors. Our heads and shoulders are visible when standing in the stall. As the women sit and stand while using the facilities, they look like a game of whack-a-mole.

Population is declining. Young people are leaving and putting off having children. When you ask for a Visa the government wants to see if you have a bank account or land. They pretty well know if you don't, you won't be back. Cubans can live abroad for two years and their assets will be protected. Travelers have an official list of what they can bring back or pay a tax if they're over the limit.

Tonight, we're in Camaguey. It was settled in 1514 by Velasquez. It is a UNESCO site and bears a more European flavor than we've seen. As we checked in for 2 nights at Hotel Grand situated on the pedestrian mall of the old area, our hotel representative sadly told us they were out of Internet cards. But, for their lapse, she would go to the nearby dispensary and purchase them for us. They're usable all over Cuba so we bought 5 hours-worth of time at I/4 what we paid at the Melia hotel in Santiago.

The hotel is very old and charming. The interior atrium is built like a New Orleans courtyard, wrought iron and all. Somehow, we have an "anteroom" to our bedroom, but there are only two chairs and a table. Not inviting. We have gone from two queen beds pushed together at the Melia to one queen for the two of us. The furnishings are rich wood trying to echo old Spanish style. They're inexpensive copies, but the attempt is worth it.

Dinner was at the hotel buffet. It was a sparse array of the typical salad (beets, cabbage, tomatoes, carrots) and bad cake and toppings. Luckily there was a tureen of soup. I had two bowls. That's one thing that has been consistently good here. There's a good variety and they're well-seasoned. We pre-ordered our mains. I had chicken breast that was so salty I didn't eat it. I stuck to rice and beans. I remembered a rice cake and peanut butter sandwich I had in my purse for emergencies. This was an emergency.

After dinner we went up to the roof bar to look at the city at night. Stunning.

Tomorrow we spend the morning on foot attached to our headphones to better hear Jose.

Toby