Bucharest Again

Horowitz Travel- May 21, 2017- Bucharest Again

Our day started off with a Marathon. The course was all over Brasov. Runners were everywhere. Cars weren't permitted anywhere. Radu had to get special dispensation from a policeman to park so he could walk to our hotel and retrieve us. Then we had to re-trace his steps the length of 6 football fields to get to the car. 

Our first stop was Sinaia, named for Sinai after the return of a traveler who was so impressed he built a monastery in Romania and changed the name of the town to Sinaia. But we weren't going to the monastery, we were going to the Peles Castle, built by Carol I (Charles) in 1875. Radu wove his way through tour groups and gave us a Cliff Notes narration as we stayed ahead of the crowds. It is quite modern for its time. It has electricity, an elevator, central vacuum system, and central heating. Walls, doors, and trim are rich, think, deeply carved and embossed walnut. Marble is used abundantly. The entry hall has a 36-foot high stained glass ceiling that can still be opened by the original motor. Murano chandeliers and mirrors are liberally used in decorating. There are even Klimt frescoes in muted tones embracing a sitting room. To me, it was warm and livable. There was an intimacy that I could see in scale and softness of appointments. In 1947, the royals left and the state took it over. After Communism failed, the castle was given to King Michael who has written his will so that it stays a museum in perpetuity.   

We were on a tight schedule trying to make our stops in Bucharest. The Great Synagogue was still open. Built in 1847, it is now a museum of Romanian Jews and the Holocaust. The docent told us that 15th century Jews were oppressed in Europe and Russia. They sought a peaceful home in Romania. They proved their loyalty to the country by fighting against the Ottomans and paying taxes without being citizens. Carol I, pushed for citizenship regardless of religion but with special barriers for Jews. Carol II whose lover, Elena Lupescu, was Jewish, was against anti-Semitism. Eventually, Jews obtained the rights of citizenship around 1923.

We made it to the Choral Temple, modeled after a synagogue in Vienna and named for the outstanding men's choir. We were in time to hear an orientation from a genius of a man who grew up in that congregation. He was determined to preserve the memory of his parents by being a one-man protector of the facility. He plays the role of gabai, caretaker and leader of worship. He spoke fluent English, Hebrew, Romanian, Italian, and French with lightning speed. It was hard for my ears to keep up with his mouth.

He made it clear that in WWII, there was a difference in the fate of Jews in the NW of Romania and the South. Jews in the NW were transported and perished in the concentration camps with the special cooperation of Germany and Hungary. In the South, they were able to hold out until Romania switched from Nazi to Ally loyalty when they saw Germany was losing. Nice timing. Still, of the 800,000 Jews, 400,000 were transported. Only 6-7,000 live in Romania today with many of those counted not being Jewish, but being married to Jews. Wikipedia puts the population at 3,200. 

The Choral Temple has had a bumpy past. It was built and burned down in 1866. Rebuilt in 1867, in the Moorish style, it was devastated by an earthquake and fire in 1941. In 1945, it was renovated. In 1974, there was another earthquake. Repairs were painstakingly made between 1986-1990 and are ongoing.

During the Communist regime, the head rabbi was a very strong personality. He joined the Socialist Party and brokered a deal with the state allowing Jews to continue worshipping in their synagogues. He also worked with Israel and the government to allow Jews to emigrate to Israel. Once they applied to leave, they lost their homes and jobs. They were charged a "ransom" based on their value to the regime. They had to leave with no money and no more than they could carry.

We got to our hotel around 3 PM. It's the same place we stayed our first night in Romania. We settled in then took a walk around the area. It's Sunday, so most places were closed. We did find the ice-cream we never had last night and scoped out places for dinner.

We ended up at Primus, an Irish pub, of all places. David and I enjoyed a burger and Judi finally had chicken schnitzel. We were intrigued by the dumb-waiter next to our table that brought food up from the basement kitchen. Reluctant to begin sorting and packing, David and I had Kahluas back at the hotel.

This has been a most wonderful trip. It's rare three people can be together for three weeks and be so compatible. We've shared ups and downs including steps, hills, caves, potholes, slips and slides. We've seen amazing sights and learned history through others' eyes. Being with Judi is always a pleasure and this was no exception. We even chatted about the "next trip." 

Radu said Romania was overdue for another earthquake. I hope it waits until after tomorrow. He'll pick us up at 9 AM and take us to the airport. We fly through Munich, then to Washington, DC. If awake, we'll drive home Tuesday.

Toby

Peles Castle-Sinaia

Choral Synagogue-Bucharest