Horowitz Travel--
We awoke to news that
the U.S. House passed a restrictive health care bill. This was expected, but
our disappointment is tangible. And we are learning a lesson from Bulgarian
history. There have been three Bulgarian Empires separated by foreign outside
takeovers. Each time Bulgarians fought to regain their independence. There was
always a resistance here, even during occupations. We just have to be diligent
and take opportunities to reinstate and re-gain the government to which we
aspire.
On the road, again.
Patrick is a high maintenance guide. He wants us to be pleased, asks for
reassurance, and we, in turn, try to convince him of how happy we are, and
how we appreciate his choices. I'm not saying it's a negative, because we're
getting excellent service. Today, however, our program was jam packed and we
found ourselves becoming nauseated as he sped along winding mountain roads to
be sure we saw everything. In the end, it was spectacular and more than worth
it.
Judi asked about what
appeared to be stray dogs with ear tags. He explained that they were indeed
strays who had been neutered rather than putting them into an
"asylum" for life. They don't kill strays but don't want them to
reproduce. The dogs seem to be well fed (lots of trash around) and not
dangerous.
We drove to Gumoshtnik
to visit his friend Angelina. She's in her late 40's and looks 60. She is
proudly in charge of the town cultural center built in the Communist era. It's
a substantial building that houses a library, social hall, and auditorium.
That's one thing the Soviets did that was positive. There we ran into a Brit
and his Bulgarian girlfriend. He'd just bought a house in town. Patrick said
houses can be from $800-20,000 depending on condition. The location is stunning
and David kept picturing a resort on the hillside overlooking the valley and
mountains beyond.
We proceeded to
Angelina's home to meet her husband, Emil, and see their family farm. They have
goats, chickens and a few cows. One kid was particularly fond of my fingers and
used them as a pacifier since his mama was in another area. We tromped through
the muck petting and cuddling. I was in hog heaven except there were no hogs.
As we left the paddock, Emil was ready with a hose to wash our shoes. He rubbed
the glop off our soles by hand, then we all scrubbed with homemade soap at an
outdoor stone sink. We toured the tractor barn as Emil proudly displayed his
machinery. Patrick got a chance to chop wood and was quite proficient at it. He
was chopping away when Angelina noticed kids escaping from the paddock. Emil
had forgotten to close a gate and we watched as he ran after them and carried
them back to safety.
Angelina joined us as we
drove up the road to her old family home. They now use it as a weekend retreat,
but it has no running water or plumbing. She has it furnished as it would have
been when she was a child. She rents it out to limited clientele. There's not
even an outhouse. We sat on the balcony in child-sized chairs and drank herbal
tea from local plants she'd picked then prepared in an electric teapot. Yes,
they have electricity. She served a cow cheese she made from milk provided by
the cow we met. It was served on a plate covered in sugar. Interesting. I
enjoyed one piece but it was too strong for more.
Our parting was filled
with heartfelt thanks and promises to friend her on Facebook. Patrick told us
that although they own land and have food and shelter, they can't afford things
like clothing. We all plan to send them some clothes when we get home. We'll
also send some small items for children to be kept at the cultural
center.
Not far down the road we
visited a memorial to eight people from that town who went down with the
Titanic. Of all the passengers, there were fifty Bulgarians who perished.
Agents from the U.S. recruited workers in poor Eastern European countries. The
workers sold all they had and ventured to the golden land where many achieved
the dreams that had been promised. For others, it ended in tragedy.
The open-air crafts
market in Gabrovo held promise of perhaps finding a hippo for Rylee, but it was
not to be. It reminded us of Hale Farm in Akron as it's comprised of relocated
examples of local cottages now used as workshops for craftspeople. Neither did
we find a hippo in Tryavna. Patrick disparages "touristic" places,
but took us there anyway to see the revival (post Ottoman) architecture notable
for elaborate wood carving and roofs made of arranged rocks.
Today's locations were
all stunning. Each was nestled in the Balkan Range, had its own stream, and
backdrop of heart-stopping views. Our last treat was a small monastery (three
monks). It's in a valley and backs up against a rock cliff. Of course, Patrick
has a friend there too. It was a brief stop, but lovely to see the small stone
chapel encrusted with icons, overpowering chandelier, and bursts of color.
We're at the Gurko Hotel
in Veliko Tarnovo for two nights. It's on a hillside, of course, and our room
and sitting room are generous, clean, and light-filled. Kris, our guide from
our day tour of Sofia is here too. He's acting as a private driver.
Patrick and Judi joined
us in our room for Shabbat candle lighting, wine, and bread. He asked if he was
Jewish afterwards. I told him we hadn't circumcised him yet.
We had dinner at the
hotel restaurant. It was delicious. My dinner was bohchor (sp) a take on
chicken pot pie in a bread bowl only less soupy. Judi had a pork dish with
porcini, and David had chicken stuffed with cheese. Our sever who also welcomed
us to the hotel and showed us our rooms, was Miro. Patrick says Miro is always
very fashionable. I wonder if he realizes Miro is gay? A loud and showy
thunderstorm rolled in and out as we ate. Quite a spectacle experienced from a
mountaintop.
Tomorrow will be busy
with area sites. Depending on weather we may have to adapt.
Toby
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| Patrick chopping wood |
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| View from Angelina's family home |
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