Tripping With Toby: Sighisoara

Horowitz Travel May 19, 2017- Sighisoara

Oy! An endless day. We left the hotel and drove south through flat farmland to the oldest wooden synagogue in Romania. Jews had been in the area of Pietra Neamt since the 17th century. Before the Nazi transports and Communists, it was a thriving community of 24 synagogues. There's one left and its mainly a museum with a small chapel used by the remaining 130 Jews. It's also used as a gathering place for the town to hear concerts and for art exhibits. There will be a celebration of synagogues in many Romanian cities tomorrow night. The Cathedral Synagogue of the Bal Shem Tov, the wooden synagogue, will participate.

Permission was granted in 1766, for a wood synagogue using wooden nails to be built on the foundation of an old stone synagogue as long as it wasn't taller than surrounding churches. Wood signifies impermanence and the fact that it was built several steps underground was to assure it wouldn't be too tall. The interior is typical of what we've seen, but the memorial board was unique. It's lit by candles instead of bulbs. In addition, after electricity came, there were large opaque glass globes with names of the deceased. I found this the most unsettling synagogue we've visited because it's function is as a relic.

We were now going back into Transylvania through the Bicaz Gorge and over the Carpathians again. It was Mr. Toad's Wild Ride and Space Mt. combined. The curves were of the switchback variety. I tried to close my eyes and sleep so as not to get dizzy. But the limestone cliffs, stream, and souvenir stands were too interesting to miss. Busloads of people were walking on the foot wide "shoulder" of the road risking death by plunging or death by crushing against the rock wall depending on what side of the road they were using. They were risking life and limb to buy refrigerator magnets, t-shirts, and post cards. Semi's had to use the oncoming lane to maneuver the curves and there was one showdown where the face-off resulted in the car partially climbing the cliff. We hurried along following semis or buses when possible allowing them to run interference for us.

We took a lunch break at Lacu Rosa (Red Lake) where I took note of the mandatory list of at least a dozen allergens detailed in all menus. Foods on the menu containing those allergens were noted in the margin. The restaurant was Alpine in motif and set lakeside. Picturesque, only to be marred by a giant inflatable Mickey Mouse slide.

We were on a tight timetable to get to Transylvania. In this region, road signs indicating names of towns and villages were in German, Romanian, and Hungarian to reflect the history and make-up of the residents. We had to be at a gypsy home to meet the woman who would tell us about the life and answer our questions. She never showed, but her mother filled in admirably.

The household consists of four generations: the mother is 44, grandma is 63, there is the adult daughter, who is twice divorced, and her children. Grandma was widowed 8 years ago, but her son, head of family, is in residence. He works as a policeman and is an example of how gypsies in this area are integrated into village life. They call themselves gypsies, and so I will. As I mentioned in another email, they are said to have migrated from India and arrived in Romania in the late 1700's. They weren't permitted to own land and few wanted to hire them. Thus, they moved from place to place and were associated with nomadic people. Today's laws offer equal rights and protections.

They are organized by caste/clan with a male leader. They have no religion of their own and, unless converted to Christianity, they remain irreligious.

Marriages take place in mid to early teens, and brides live in their husbands’ homes. Only the boys stay in the family home and dowries are passed down through males. This family's dowry is pots, china, and glassware that's on display, but never used. Marriages of children that young aren't recognized by the government. Girls go to school four years and boys eight. The three-year old granddaughter spoke the Gypsy language, Romanian, some Hungarian, and was learning English. The mother didn't do poorly in English either.

The family we visited has a newly married 15-year old daughter who is pregnant. They said she was a wild one and the only way to keep her safe (not pregnant before marriage) was to get her married. I had Radu translate the story of the marriage of my 14-year old grandmother and I think a bond of understanding developed with the mother. When her husband, the policeman, came home on a break, I wished them both the love my grandparents experienced.

Onward and upward we went to Sighisoara. I love the name. It's pronounced "siggy-schwarah." We checked into our 17th century hotel, The House With the Antler, and began our climb up 56 steps to our rooms. Poor Radu insisted on carrying our bags. We're in a garret with sloping ceilings and David has hit his head multiple times. But it's charming. We thought we'd never come down until breakfast, but we had a walking tour of the town to do. It was "in the program" so Radu was determined we accomplish it.

Established in 1200 AD by Germans, Sighisoara was attacked by Tartars and Ottomans. Today it's the oldest inhabited citadel in Europe. Completely walled and boasting eight guard towers, it is a formidable sight. Towers were organized by guild with each guild responsible for deploying to and defending the city from its designated tower. The clock tower, originally the main gate, dominates the town and has the traditional central steeple with four lesser ones on each corner. The four small steeples indicate this is a town where capital punishment is meted out.

There's a myth that this is where the Pied Piper brought the Children of Hamlin after their ungrateful parents refused to pay him his ransom. But it's no myth that Vlad the Impaler was born here in 1431. As explained by Radu, Vlad got a bad rap. His father (Vlad Dracul II) came to the city from afar and used the dragon as an emblem on the family crest. No one here had seen a dragon before and said that Vlad II was the devil. Vlad III was called Dracula meaning son of Dracul. The family moved to Walachia, a southern area of Romania, and in an attempt to have good relations with the Turks, the father sent Vlad III to train with the sultan. But once Vlad III learned their tactics, he returned home and used the tactics against them. Impaling an enemy was not an unusual custom in the day. It wasn't a stake in the heart, but a stake forced up and through the body from the nether regions. Blech! Vlad III used that method of execution on criminals and his enemies. He wanted the merchants of Walachia to have the same rights as Germans and Hungarians and fought viciously for his people. Unfortunately, he married a Catholic woman and fell out of favor. He was beheaded at age 45. There is a story of a younger brother who fared better. He was called Radu the Handsome. He too went to work for the sultan. The sultan was said to like young boys. When Vlad III died, guess who succeeded him? You got it. The handsome Radu.

We have to get up early tomorrow for another big day. We'll go to Brasov.

Toby