Cluj Napoca

Horowitz Travel- May 14, 2017-Cluj Napoca

Things looked better this morning. It was nice having two bathrooms. We got to breakfast in record time. The grand ballroom also served as the breakfast area. I could see shadows of the former grandeur of the hotel. Radu came to breakfast only to check that we had a good night then left us alone. Unlike Patrick, he walks slower. It's easier for us to keep together and keep up. Our daughter, Wendy, asked if Patrick set "unrealistic expectations" for us. I must say he did cajole us into doing some daring things by telling us that older people than we had done them. Fortunately, we didn't get injured.

Jews had been in Transylvania for 600 years. We started our walking tour of Sibiu this morning by going to the synagogue. It was closed, surrounded by weeds, but still in use. Crows circled overhead providing ominous symbolism of the fate of the Jewish community. Radu told us that depending on the predominant religion, the churches and synagogues nearby had to be built of wood. Stone and brick was reserved for houses of worship of the majority.  

Sibiu is a blend of Medieval and Renaissance. There are remains of the old fortress wall and ornate pastel buildings. Most buildings have "eye windows" in the roof to provide ventilation. It really feels as if you're being watched. Three churches dominate the skyline: Lutheran, Romanian Orthodox, and Catholic. All bells tolled at once to announce Sunday morning worship. 

We visited the Bruckenthal Museum featuring the collection of Baron Bruckenthal, governor of Transylvania in the 19th century. We were impressed with the Romanian artists who were unfamiliar to us. Other European artists were on display as well. A painting by Peter Bruegel took our breath away. It's entitled Massacre of the Innocents. I took an illegal photo of it as Judi stood guard. It translates a Biblical massacre into the Dutch culture showing soldiers killing babies and young children as they rip them from their parents' arms. Brutal.  

We packed our luggage into the van and headed for the farmers' market on our way out of town.  We've been to many markets and this was a simple one. But the produce always is stunning. We bought dried fruit and water, but noted that bananas were less expensive in the large grocery.

We had a two-hour drive ahead of us. Travel is always filled with these long hauls between cities and sites. The Carpathian Mts. were sunlit and the colors of the stucco houses glowed. Radu said that the brighter the color of the house, the more likely the paint was on clearance sale.

We were on our way to Turda. I kid you not. We even ate lunch there. Now I can say I had lunch in Turda. It's a famous town in Romania known for an ancient salt mine. The Romans worked the mine as did everyone who followed. It was closed in 1932, but salt is still big business in this country. In 1992, it opened to tourists and has been developed to be user friendly. We were told there were 13 flights of steps down to the main level and 13 more below that. It's conical in shape and almost 400 feet high. What we weren't told was that it was large enough, enormous enough, mammoth enough (sorry Mammoth Cave) to hold a small amusement park. There was a small bowling alley, ping pong and pool tables, miniature golf, children's playground, and full-scale Ferris wheel that we rode. Down 13 more flights, was a natural lake with rowboats. I'm conflicted about what they did with such a grand display of natural beauty, but understand the unique nature of this tourist destination. Footing was dicey. In case you wonder, there were elevators between the levels. We walked down and up about six flights then used the elevator.

Our stop for the night is Cluj Napoca, the second largest city in Romania. It has a university and a large IT community. We did a drive by of the synagogue which was not opened, of course. Radu has been calling the three phone numbers he had to contact them, but they didn't answer. We're at Hotel Siago, a small, old hotel. Bathrooms are updated and have shower stalls which we appreciate. I'm still not good with wand showers and no shower curtains. 

Dinner was at Marty's, a modern place catering to students. Big menu, cheerful, servers were happy to practice their English. I still haven't had goulash.

I started the conversation with Radu about LGBT issues. He's very liberal and told us that Parliament voted for one man one woman only marriage with pressure from behind the scenes by the Orthodox Church. He doesn't know how clergy can be so judgmental when some of them have been caught doing horrible things to children.

Toby

Peter Bruegel's massacre of the Innocents

David tastings alt

Amphitheater in salt mine

In Turda Salt Mine