Horowitz Travel- Sophia City Tour- May 1, 2017
It's May 1. There are no
parades of military might, but it is a holiday. It's Labor Day. No school, no
work, just extra crowds at tourist sites.
Our city guide, Kris,
met us at the hotel. He has a degree in history/geography and spoke good if
rapid English. He's 27, and told us that during the 90's his father didn't see
a future for them under Communism. He sent Kris to a private school where he
learned English. He's been to the U.S. and has traveled the world with his
grandmother with whom he's very close.
On our way to our first
stop, Kris pointed to the proximity of the Balkan Mt. Range. The imposing sight
looms over the city and divides the country north from south. The plus is their
beauty and that skiing is only a few minutes away. We arrived at the historical
museum for an overview of Bulgaria's past. Being at the crossroads of
civilization and having been influenced (read: losers in battles) by a
collection that includes: Thracians, Greeks, Romans, Ottoman Turks, Barbarians,
Slavs, Huns, Russians, they are an amalgamation of that past and a fierce
identification with and desire to be just Bulgarian.
During one of several
times of independence interspersed between foreign governing, King Boris acquiesced
to Constantinople and declared that the country would leave its pagan ways and
convert to Christianity. It was a political decision. He then made the church
into a Bulgarian version so they wouldn't lose their language or identity. A
Bulgarian alphabet had been created and he wanted it left intact. It appeared
to be too complex for most to learn so it was simplified into what is now the
Cyrillic alphabet that we associate with Russia. But it was a Bulgarian creation.
Our tour continued to
the Benyana Church parts of which date from the 11th century. Amazingly
preserved frescoes depicting faces of 250 individuals cover walls and ceilings
giving faint evidence of their age.
We lunched outdoors at a
quaint restaurant. The bread was outstanding. I'd tasted Bulgaria's famous
yogurt at breakfast, had local cheese with my aubergine for lunch, and the
bread completed my Bulgarian flavor palate. Judi had shopski, an egg, cheese,
and tomato combo cooked in a clay pot. David had chicken and veggies served on a
sizzling skillet. It reminded me of fajitas. Judi was the winner. Menus list
the size of the portions in grams for each dish. We're getting better at
judging, but still over ordered.
A modern history lesson
followed. We were apologetically told that although Bulgaria aligned with the
Nazis, their hearts weren't in it. They were uncooperative allies who made
promises to supply weapons and soldiers, but never kept them. They're also
known for saving approximately all of the 35,000 Jews in the country at the
time. Most have since moved to Israel. In one incident, they were told to fill
trains sent to transport Jews to Poland. Instead, they filled the trains with
Christian Bulgarians whom the Nazis didn’t want and got away with it. The Nazis
were angered, but there were no penalties.
Rid of the Nazis they
found themselves under the thumb of Russia and Stalin. I explained to Kris the
phrase "from the frying pan into the fire," and he agreed that's what
happened. At the end of the Soviet Union, Bulgaria became a parliamentary
republic. Out of curiosity, I asked what happened to the statues of Communists
that had peppered the area. He said that all except one were in a museum of
Soviet society. Maybe that's where our statues of Confederate icons could be
taken, a museum of the Civil War. As with Bulgaria, it's a dark part of our
history, but not to be forgotten.
A walking tour followed
including going into the Alexander Nevsky Church and Haggia Sophia (formerly a
mosque). We walked past a functioning mosque and on to the synagogue which was
closed. We hope to see it tomorrow. As we proceeded, the contrast between
Soviet architecture and the European influenced Renaissance inspired buildings
that preceded them was laughable.
Kris left us around 6PM
and we strolled a pedestrian mall, ate outdoors again, and walked back to the
hotel.
We still find our hotel
comfortable. In an attempt to provide for all our needs, a list of services is
in our room. Along with toothpaste, the front desk also has condoms.
I don't know if this is
a coherent posting. Although I slept through the night, jet lag has caught up
with me.
Tomorrow we see the
monastery at Rila.
Toby
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| Benyana Church |
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| Alexander Nevski Cathedral |
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