Tripping With Toby: Cienfuegos and Santa Clara

Jan. 27, 2018- Cienfuegos and Santa Clara

Cienfuegos is another UNESCO town. It was settled by the Spanish who later wanted to make the population more white. They enticed the French to come to paradise and provide more white blood to mix with former slaves. The French did that and left their architectural mark as well with iron lace balconies to compliment the heavy Spanish carved wood.

We visited with a guitar orchestra that was unreal. The seven played a variety of Cuban, Spanish, Pop, & Classical numbers. They made the music sound like a full company with many different instruments. The players are classically trained and teach and/or play with other groups.

We had time to look at another flea market. There were some different items. Vendors were trying to help us by asking each other about a hippo. A man who did wire art said he could have one in 2 days. He and we were disappointed that we were leaving shortly.

Lunch was a surprise. The paladare, Carmelina, was the real deal. The owners lived on site, it was family run, and fresh foods were purchased from farms daily. The roasted pumpkin, their term for squash, was succulent. There were deliciously seasoned mini fish sticks bearing no resemblance to what we get frozen in a box. The family style meal was complete with black bean soup and rice, grouper, chicken, and ice cream. I had frozen non-alcoholic lemonade, which, for some reason was blue. David drank a strong lemony drink with either rum or another liquor. We disagree on the ingredient. He walked to the bus just fine. Luckily, it was right outside the door. There was the usual serenading by a local group joined by Manuel, our tour leader. Neither he nor several of our compatriots were feeling any pain. I saw many gin and tonics being downed.

The bus actually drove on a modern 6 lane highway to Santa Clara. It was raining when we arrived at the Che Guevara Memorial. Evidently museums and the memorial close when it rains. The floors are tile or marble and get filthy and slippery. Perhaps tomorrow. We're staying 2 nights at the Americana Hotel. Our room has no windows at all. We're pretending it's an inside cabin on a cruise ship. They have wifi, but it's temperamental. We couldn't get on until there was a short blackout during which time it must have re-booted.

Food seems to be improving the closer we get to Havana. Our group walked to Paladare Casona Jover. And enjoyed a feast of ropa de carne (shredded beef), whole snapper, and chicken legs. When it's chicken it's usually legs. Maybe they have 6 legged chickens. We were given complimentary sangria and a large flan for the table. There was enough for seconds. The guava sauce was a bit much for me, but others loved it. I haven't gotten over thinking it's a bowl of chocolate whenever it appears.

Tomorrow we will walk the city of Santa Clara and meet with Cuban abuelos, grandparents.

Toby