Trinidad

Jan. 26,2018- Trinidad

After we sent the mail last night we walked to an ice cream and chocolate shop. The cases were empty, but it was still open. All they had was strawberry ice cream. Sad faces. Reminded me of the old Soviet Union.

Manuel committed one of the ultimate sins on a tour. We were 20 minutes from the hotel on our way to Trinidad when he realized he'd forgotten his laptop. We pulled into a gas station, he hailed a ride, and was back in 15 minutes. Jose entertained us with history and stories while we waited. He explained about hand signals used by hitchhikers. They will hold up money and indicate how many passengers. They also signal to drivers if there are police ahead or if it's clear. 

Once Manuel returned and profusely apologized, he explained about shopping in Trinidad. He said the market had many tsochkes. To him that meant gifts for your neighbors you do not like. I was napping when the driver of the camel-bus in front of us stopped, walked to the back of his bus, turned his back to us, and peed. Speaking now of peeing. David couldn't wait. We have an emergency bathroom on the bus. He wobbled to it as the bus reached speed and made it back in one piece. He said he's probably bruised in all the wrong places from being tossed around as he aimed.

Of note was a huge pig walking along the road being led on a rope. We guessed he was going to market, but a better future was in store. His owner was a pig pimp and Mr. Pig was on his way to a date to make piglets. That brought up the subject of prostitution. It's legal in Cuba, but organized pimping or houses are forbidden.

The city of Trinidad was settled in 1514, by Velasquez. It is a UNESCO site and well preserved. It was the original target of the Bay of Pigs invasion, but the attackers were told it was too populous. They moved down the coast to the Bay. Jose said they never really entered the Bay before being driven back.

We had what my dad called a continuous "gulley washer" on the four-hour ride. Fortunately, it stopped in time for us to make our way along slippery river rock streets (I call them cobble rocks). Our lunch stop at the Vista Gourmet Tower restaurant was up a steep flight of wet tile steps. We held the railing for dear life. The view was spectacular. Back in the day when sugar cane was king, two wealthy brothers who grew sugar cane tried to outdo each other by building tall towers. One was in the countryside and one near our restaurant. 

The lunch buffet was a breath of fresh air with more choices than usual and ample fruit and dessert. Onions and garlic have taken over from sugar cane. We could smell it during lunch.

While waiting in line, a woman heard me speaking English and asked where I was from. When I told her, Ohio, and Peggy said Minnesota, the lady said she was from NYC. I told her I guessed that, and I could say it without insult since I grew up partly in NY. She horned her way in front of me. I let it go. Someone from the woman's tour group came up to Peggy later and told her she'd give us 100 Cucs to take that woman with us. 

People to People tours are the only kind allowed from the US to Cuba. Tour guides have to report how many P2P encounters we've had and with whom. When our morning program cancelled, the guides scrambled to find another one. We went to Casa Cofradia, a house from the 1700's. The owners are musicians who turned the place into a B & B for extra money. At first, they got a house from the government in the countryside if they agreed to fix it up. But they wanted to be in the town center so they could work on their music. The wife, a spitfire, found someone willing to trade his dilapidated city house for their newly refurbished country house. She then spotted the house that is now the B & B and nagged the owner into a trade again. They have turned the filthy decrepit place into a warm and welcoming home and cultural center with modern conveniences. They realized they needed fresh food for the breakfast they served so rented 35 acres from the government to raise animals and grow produce. They have enough to sell in the market now. They teach music to children and travel the world with their band, Jack and the Giant Bean. They love jazz and the blues. They sang and played for us. What a treat. People may own property here now, but only Cubans.

We had plenty of time to wander the colorful streets of Trinidad. Each building is another souvenir shop carrying the same inventory. There is also a flea market of stalls carrying the same stuff. We kept asking for a hippo in Spanish. They showed us elephants and lions saying hippos aren't from Cuba. We told them that elephants and lions weren't either. We wanted "solemente hippopotamo." They left us alone after that until one man ran to a few stalls and came up with a rhino. Nope. It wouldn't do. At several stalls people offered to trade anything they sold for my $5 sunglasses. They're bright green and orange with green lenses. Quite garish. One woman also wanted to trade for the small Purell bottle hanging from my purse. If they had a hippo I might have agreed. 

Tonight, we're in the "jungle" with no wifi. Hotel Maria Dolores is a series of adorable detached cabins joined along a boardwalk that branches out from a central thatched open air dining room. I love it here. They even have horses and other farm animals. Whoops. That means a rooster.

Dinner was lovely because of the tiki hut-like setting and the company. Our group has jelled. There is no one we avoid sitting with. We're usually at a long table exchanging life's memories and forgiving each other for repetition. It's hard to remember to whom we told what.

We start a half hour later tomorrow. The kitchen staff has to travel by who knows what means to get to our remote location. We can actually sleep until 6:30 AM. Our destination is Cienfuegos, only 1 1/2 hours away. 

Toby 

View of Tower-Gibara

Trinidad

Country Cabins