Last Day in Havana

Jan. 31, 2018- Last Day in Havana

We were serenaded at breakfast by a guitarist and violinist playing Yiddush music. Maybe they're available for bar mitzvahs?

Our speaker this morning was Martiza Corrales, a historian and professor. Everyone here seems to be a professor of some sort. She insisted, by using statistics and social history that, despite four popes visiting the island, Cuba is not a Catholic country. They are not Communist either. They're religious, but not attached to any faith or institution. They're superstitious. They cover their bases and do what's expedient. They wear symbols of many religions interchangeably and display them at home. This is not a change since 1958. Cubans have always been that way.

Class and color matter more than religion. An example was that Batista wanted to join an exclusive yacht club while in power. Although there were Jewish members, he was blackballed because he had some African blood. When the English were here, they came with their families. Spanish did not. They mixed with slaves, but invented "white certificates" for their offspring. In future generations, as they married whites, the progeny would have proof that, in the beginning, they were "officially" white. We teasingly asked Jose if he had his certificate. His mother is Haitian and he is dark. He said his family is so mixed it's a United Nations.

Few Muslims were here when Cuba decided to give them a small area for a mosque. Cubans were afraid the Shiite and Sunni wouldn't get along among themselves and would cause religious dissent. Things were ironed out and now Muslims have a real mosque where both sects pray together. One part of history Cubans are ashamed of is when they rounded up Jehovah's Witnesses and homosexuals and placed them in concentration camps together. The Jehovah's Witnesses refused to salute the flag or serve in the army. Cuba knew JW's hated homosexuals and hoped they'd destroy each other if in the same camps. That's in the past.

Survival is the goal. Protestantism became popular as a way to stick it to Spain via the Catholic Church. All Protestant denominations are represented in Cuba except Scientology. Cubans are too poor for them. Schools are strictly secular. Whenever there's an increase in socio-economic problems, religiosity increases. As outsiders, we see Che and Jose Marti becoming objects of worship. In his will, Fidel strictly forbid streets bearing his name or making him into a deity.

The Fine Arts Museum was next. The art displayed was indeed fine, the five-story ramp we climbed to begin the tour wasn't. The elevator didn't work. Surprise! The docent described what we saw as Cubanity, a melting pot of religious and cultural influences as well as a blend of the masters the Cubans studied abroad. Some were exquisite. All were fascinating. During the 1958 revolution, artists and museum workers lived in the building armed with guns to defend the treasures. Fortunately, the war didn't come to Havana.

We drove into the Miramar neighborhood towards Casa Espanola, our lunch stop. Miramar houses Embassy Row except for those of Spain and the US which are elsewhere in the city.

We enjoyed lamb and chicken. Although the lamb tasted like beef, it was a nice change.

Still awake and ready for another encounter, we went to see the Havana Queens. It wasn't what I thought it would be, a drag show. It's a group of forty 18-30 year-old dancers who do everything from acrobatics to hip-hop to rhumba with a Cuban beat. They've performed overseas and leave tomorrow for Germany. They rented an auditorium in an old school now used as a cultural center. To say it was falling down is an understatement. The stair railings were in pieces or gone except for deadly metal sticking up from the treads. The ceiling in the auditorium was pocked with bulges of rain damage, mold, and decay. Pieces were hanging over us waiting for the next deluge before collapsing. Our guides are seriously considering not taking groups to that venue again due to safety issues.

One more pass and photo op at "the most important" revolution square, and we were done. Or so we thought. Manuel had a surprise back at the hotel. He hired 1957 convertibles for a half hour cruise around town. It was a treat and we acted like teenagers taking pictures of each other in our three-car parade.

Cuba is just coming out of Communism into a more Socialistic society. What can be expected? Growing pains. What can be the end game? Bulgaria and Romania, which we toured last year, have many more years of freedom. Their progress has been facilitated by embracing democracy and free enterprise. We've been living in a democratic republic for almost 250 years & still haven't mastered it. We're all works in progress.  Maybe Cuba's mistake was in not losing a war to a rich country and cashing in on its own Marshall Plan.

Our farewell dinner was a long ride from the hotel. Usual food. A more upscale atmosphere. We didn't get back until 9pm. We're more or less packed. Trying to get those liquids in order. We'll wake up at 4 AM, breakfast at 5AM, and leave the hotel at 6:30 AM. Our plane is American's first to leave Cuba on its shuttle to Miami, so we should be on time. 

What this group really needs is a healer. There are three sick enough with "tourista" to stay in their rooms and not tour and two with "funny tummies." They're improving and will be able to join the flight tomorrow. It was touch and go for some. 

Toby

Hemingway's Fave For Daiquiris

Juan (driver), Manuel (U.S. Guide), Jose (Cuban Guide)

Dancing Queen

Ceiling in Rehearsal Hall

Ready to Ride

Hotel Nacional